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DUBROVNIK TRAVEL BLOG

 
 
Saturday, January 14, 2012
 
Dubrovnik makes New York Times’ “Places to Go in 2012” List
 
The New York Times’ travel section recently released their list of “Places to Go in 2012”.  Dubrovnik made the list as number 36 of 45 destinations.  The author of the list refers to Dubrovnik as “the St.-Tropez of the Balkans”, a comparison often made by journalists and travel writers.  The article highlights the newly renovated cable car above the Old Town, the French-fusion restaurant Gils, and the Croatian tapas restaurant Lucin Kantun.
 
For the entire list, visit the New York Times travel section website: New York Times.          
 
 
Monday, December 19, 2011
 
Christmas in Dubrovnik
 
The holiday season is a great time to visit Dubrovnik.  It is a time when the Old Town fills with locals gathering to celebrate and spread holiday cheer.  A festive atmosphere abounds at the café bars lining the Stradun and the city is dressed up with decorations and sparking lights.  There are seasonal events such as small Christmas markets, concerts, carolers, and Christmas parties.  The festivities begin on December 6th, which is recognized as St. Nicholas’s day, and continue on through the start of the New Year.  Flights and accommodation are also very reasonably priced this time of year and the weather is almost certain to be much better than in most of Europe or North America.
 
 
Wednesday, November 23, 2011  
 
High Tea in Dubrovnik  
 
A great way to warm up this winter is to have afternoon tea at the Hilton Hotel, located just outside of the Old Town’s Pile Gate.  The Hilton is running a winter promotion called “Imperial Afternoon”.  Every day from 15:00 – 19:00 guests can enjoy a wide selection of cakes with a coffee or tea for only 45 kuna.  They can be enjoyed in the confines of the Hilton’s warm, luxurious lobby bar and are accompanied by piano performances on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays.   
 
Cakes are mostly of the Viennese variety with traditional apple strudel, Sacher tort, and Esterhazy cake (chocolate butter cream sandwiched between sponge cake) making appearances on the buffet.  For guests with a car, the hotel provides 3 hours of free parking.
 
 
Friday, November 4, 2011  
 
Winter in Dubrovnik  
 
Winter in Dubrovnik can be a very rewarding time to visit if you manage your expectations.  The weather can range from warm and sunny to cool and rainy.  Whatever the weather, it is almost certain to be warmer than in most European and North American cities.   
 
Dubrovnik’s Old Town is quiet and visitors often feel like they have it to themselves.  Most sights of interest are open, but with limited hours owing to the shorter days.  Many restaurants in Dubrovnik close during the winter months, but some of the better restaurants that cater to locals as well as tourists remain open through the winter.  Cold winter days are also a great time to relax with a book and a coffee or hot chocolate in one of Dubrovnik’s cozy cafes, with the grand Austrian-style GradsKavana being a top choice.   The winter in Dubrovnik also offers good value. 
 
Accommodation is readily available and inexpensive.  Flights are diminished, but so are the ticket prices.  Even prices at restaurants and cafes sometimes fall during the winter months.  Keep an eye out for winter specials such as “High Tea” at the Hilton hotel, which offers a coffee or tea and an all-you-can-eat buffet of cakes and sweets for just 45 kuna.  
 
For those seeking sun and long days at the beach, Dubrovnik is not a winter destination.  However, for those that want to see the sights and have this centuries-old architecturally-wonderful city to themselves, the winter can be the perfect time for a short visit.    
 
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
 
Additions to Dubrovnik Restaurant Guide
 
Some time ago we shared a Dubrovnik Restaurant Guide through a series of posts on this blog. Since then several new restaurants have opened in the Dubrovnik area and we would like to add a few of those to the list:  
 
Restaurant Dubrovnik, Marojice Kaboge 5 Croatian fare with an Italian twist. Bacon-wrapped pork medallions, homemade pasta with truffle sauce, and squid stuffed with goat cheese are some of the standouts, and the first-floor terrace dining area is lovely. It is more expensive than most restaurants in Old Town, but worth it for the romantic and elegant setting, attentive service, and imaginative food.  
 
Komarda, Frana Supila This casual restaurant (located just outside of the Ploce Gate) serves mid-priced local fare (meat, seafood, pasta, salads), but the real reason for coming here is the pleasant seaside setting that gives diners a postcard-worthy view of the Old Town’s port. It’s a great spot to while away a few daytime or evening hours.  
 
Orsan Yacht Club, Ivana Zajca 2, Lapad Lovely seaside restaurant that serves the standard Dalmatian menu with an emphasis on fish and seafood. It’s a bit pricey and parking can be a problem, but the picturesque harborside seating and tranquil atmosphere can’t be beat. On a budget? Go at lunch time and ask the waiter about the “Marende”, a daily lunch special offered at a low price, usually 35-45 kuna.  
 
King Konoba, Plat (below the main road, turn off is at the Plat bus stop) Off-the-beaten-path family restaurant with a pleasant covered terrace dining area. The menu is simple (grilled meat, grilled fish, salads, and a few pasta dishes), but the quality of the food is high and the prices are low. Stand-outs include the mixed grill and grilled squids, both served with a large plate of grilled vegetables and a generous serving of French fries. Everything is presented attractively and there is plenty of good local wine to enliven the already jovial atmosphere.  
 
Restaurant Dalmacija, Trumbicev put 9, Cavtat Dalmatian fare served on a covered terrace with sea views. Try the “Steak Dalmacija” served on a sizzling cast-iron plate. They also have a nice dessert list.
 
 
Friday, September 09, 2011  
 
Cruise Ships in Croatia  
 
The cruise ship industry makes up a major part of Croatian tourism, often to the dismay of other visitors and local business owners.  It was recently announced that Croatia expects 1.2 million visitors from cruise ships this year, but each passenger spends only 43 Euros during their stay in the country.  This is far less than other visitors who spend money on accommodation, tours, transportation, souvenirs, food, and drinks.  Most of these services are already provided on the ships, so cruise ship passengers often buy little more than an ice cream and an inexpensive souvenir.  
 
During the last 5 years the number of cruise ship passengers visiting Croatia has doubled.  This had lead to overcrowding in Dubrovnik’s Old Town, a problem that is obvious to anyone visiting the Old Town on a busy day in July or August.  Often there are long lines just to enter the city and the conditions inside the city walls can be very unpleasant.  Luckily passengers head back to their ships in the evening and the Old Town regains its beauty and charm at night; a reward for those who decide to stay in Dubrovnik for more than just a few hours.  For those that wish to avoid the crowds, the Dubrovnik Port Authority website has a schedule of cruise ship traffic (listed as “Dolasci/Odlasci”) and a color-coded chart showing how many passengers will be in the city on any given day.  By using this chart visitors can make the most of their visit by planning their excursions out of town on busy cruise ship days and then exploring the Old Town on lighter days.
 
 
Monday, August 22, 2011  
 
Dubrovnik Cable Car  
 
A great way to get a bird’s eye view of Dubrovnik is to make the 405 meter ascent to the peak of Srdj hill.  Until last year this could only be done by foot (for the very fit) or by car (for the brave), but now a cable car takes passengers there from the Old Town in just 4 minutes.  The cable car station is located near the Ploce bus station, just 3-minutes walking distance from the Buza Gate entrance to Old Town.  There are 2 cable cars and each holds 30 people so wait times are generally short.  
 
Once at the top there is a café bar and restaurant with a panoramic view of Dubrovnik and the islands.  There is also a souvenir shop, amphitheatre (available to rent for events), and a war museum dedicated to the conflict that consumed the region in the early 1990s.  Tickets are priced at 50 Kuna each way or 80 Kuna roundtrip for adults and 25 Kuna each way or 40 Kuna round trip for children ages 4 – 12.  Children under 4 are free.  
 
The cable car is open year round and departures are every half hour between the following hours:  
 
January: 9 am to 4 pm
February: 9 am to 5 pm    
March:  9 am to 5 pm
April:  9 am to 8 pm
May:  9 am to 8 pm
June:  9 am to midnight
July:  9 am to midnight
August:  9 am to midnight
September: 9 am to 8 pm
October: 9 am to 8 pm  
November: 9 am to 5 pm
December: 9 am to 4 pm
 
 
Tuesday, August 16, 2011  
 
A Hidden Gem of a Restaurant Along the Dubrovnik Riviera  
 
This summer we were happy to discover a restaurant that until now had somehow escaped our notice, despite its location just a couple of kilometers from our home.  Our fortuitous discovery was Konoba King, a small family-operated restaurant in Plat (a small village about 20 minutes from Dubrovnik by car).  The restaurant sits on a small residential street leading down to the sea and one of the area’s best beaches.  
 
Upon arrival at the restaurant diners climb a flight of stairs to a charming, peaceful terrace with views of the sea (and, unfortunately, an abandoned hotel in ruins just across the street).  They are greeted by the friendly waitstaff, all of whom seem like members of the family.  The patriarch can be seen at the end of the terrace, preparing large platters of meat and fresh seafood on an open grill.  The menu is simple (grilled meat, grilled fish, salads, and a few pasta dishes), but the quality of the food is high and the prices are low.  Stand-outs include the mixed grill and grilled squids, both served with a large plate of grilled vegetables and a generous serving of French fries.  Everything is presented attractively and there is plenty of good local wine to enliven the already jovial atmosphere.    
 
 
Tuesday, August 09, 2011  
 
Navigating the Streets of Dubrovnik  
 
Driving around Dubrovnik can be difficult for first time visitors.  The roads are narrow and there are many 1-way streets.  GPS is unreliable because many streets are not listed.  Google maps certainly help, but many of the “streets” near the Old Town are actually staircases that are restricted to pedestrian access.  The following are just a few tips to help you navigate the streets:  
 
- When arriving by car from the main road (either from the direction of Split or from the airport) take the exit that says “Dubrovnik” and follow signs for “Grad”, which is Croatian for city (the Old Town in this case).
 
- On the way to the Old Town you will see a large “Parking” sign.  This is the public parking garage.  It is the best place to park when leaving your car overnight or for more than a couple of hours.  For more information on the garage, please see the article: Parking Near Dubrovnik’s Old Town.
 
- If driving to the Pile Gate then pass the parking garage and take a right at the fork in the road; you will see the city walls directly in front of you after you take the right.  - To reach the Ploce gate continue on straight instead of taking the right at the fork in the road.  There are 2 main roads on which you can drive: Petra Kresimira IV (“the upper road”) and Frana Supila (“the lower road”).  Traffic only goes in one direction so to reach the Ploce Gate entrance to Old Town you must follow the upper road to the end and then make a sharp right turn onto the lower road to return to the Old Town. 
 
- Most other streets in this area are pedestrian-only staircases where many private apartments are located.
 
- To reach the streets high up on the hill in Ploce such as Ante Topica Mimare and Put Od Bosanke, take a sharp left at the intersection on Petra Kresimira IV, just past Biker’s Café.
 
- The Old Town itself is pedestrian-only so if arriving by car it is best to stop at the Pile, Ploce, or Buza Gate (depending on where your accommodation is) to unload your luggage and then one member of your group can take the car to the public parking garage (which is about 10 – 15 minutes walking distance away).
 
- There are also metered parking spots located around the Old Town, but these are best for short-term parking of just 2 or 3 hours.  
 
 
Tuesday, August 02, 2011  
 
Croatia Packing List  
 
When taking a trip to Croatia it is important to pack the right things to make your holiday a success.  Other than the obvious list of clothing and toiletries there are a few things that are especially useful when visiting the Croatian coast.  Below is a short suggested packing list:  
 
- Sunblock with a high SPF as the sun can be very strong in Croatia, especially during the summer months.  
 
- Water shoes are very useful as much of the swimming in Dubrovnik is done from rocky beaches or just large jagged rocks leading down to the sea.  Water shoes will enable you to be more adventurous and explore more unique swimming locations.  They are even useful at the most calm beaches as getting in and out of the water can be difficult when balancing on round, slippery rocks.  Water shoes can be purchased in Dubrovnik at various shops.  Prices range from just 50 Kuna in Cavtat to 200 Kuna in some shops in the Old Town.  
 
- Mosquito repellent is very important for those that generally get attacked by bugs.  Mosquitoes are ubiquitous along the Croatian coast, especially in the hot and humid summer months.  It is especially important to use when going out in the evening to dine al fresco.  
 
- Electrical plug adapters are necessary for any electrical devices such as cell phone chargers, laptop computers, or personal grooming devices.  The electricity is 220 V as in all of Europe and the plugs are of the 2-prong variety seen in most of Continental Europe.  If traveling from the UK or Ireland you will only need a simple adapter so that your plugs fit into the electrical outlets.  If traveling from North America you will need to check that your devices are compatible with the 220 V system or they will be ruined when plugged in.  Most mobile phone chargers and computer power cords are universal for 110 V ~ 240 V (meaning they will work in both North America and Europe) but most personal grooming devices such as hair dryers and electrical shavers are not.  For these you will have to bring a special voltage converter which can be quite bulky and heavy.  
 
 
Monday, July 25, 2011   
 
Gelato in Dubrovnik   
 
On hot summer days it is hard to resist the allure of gelato (Italian style ice cream) which is sold from many shops in Dubrovnik’s Old Town and Cavat’s waterfront.  The only difficulty is deciding which flavor to choose from the artfully presented mounds behind the glass case, piled high with fresh gelato and toppings.  It is no wonder that every second person strolling on the Stradun seems to have a cone in hand.   There are many gelato shops to choose from and most offer good quality and service, but here are a couple of suggestions for those looking for the best (and the one to avoid):
 
The Best:   
 
Dolce Vita:  Located just off of the Stradun on a small side street (Nalješkoviceva 1a) this ice cream and cake shop is every local’s pick for best in Dubrovnik.  In addition selling the usual cones of gelato to go, they also serve ice cream sundaes, cakes, and coffees to customers sitting inside their bright, cheery shop or at café tables lining the street.   
 
Poklisar:  This restaurant is located on the Old Port, just through an arch in the city walls leading to the Ploce Gate.  They have a large display of gelato piled high and sell cones to go or large dishes for those who want to sit and enjoy the wonderful atmosphere created by the city walls and port.   
 
Kiwi:  Located right on the Stradun, this is probably the most popular gelato shop in Dubrovnik.  Judging by the lines this seems to be where most of the people walking on the Stradun get their ice cream cones.  Once you see the large, double display case with dozens of flavors piled high it’s hard to pass by without stopping in for one.  The high turnover also helps to maintain the high quality.    
 
The One to Avoid:           
 
U.O. Paradiso in Cavtat:  This small café and gelato shop is located along Cavtat’s waterfront promenade.  The quality of the gelato varies and on one occasion when the gelato was very bad the owner was dismissive, rude, and responded to our requests to replace it with hostility.  This is a good example of a business that relies on one-time visits from tourists rather than the repeat business of satisfied loyal customers. 
 
 
Thursday, July 14, 2011   
 
T-Mobile Holiday Package   
 
For those currently traveling in Croatia or planning to visit this summer T-Mobile is now offering a great new way to stay connected.  They are offering a new Holiday Package to pre-paid customers.  The package includes the following:   
 
2 SIM cards with local Croatian phone numbers
Unlimited text messages to Europe
30 minutes of talk time to Europe
2 hours of talk time to other T-Mobile numbers in Croatia
   
The price for this package is 198 Kuna (less than 30 Euros)*.  It can be purchased at any T-Mobile shop.  In Dubrovnik, the T-Mobile shop is located near the harbor in Gruz.
      
*Please note that this package and price was on offer as of July 12, 2011 but I do not know how long this offer will last.
 
 
Sunday, July 03, 2011   
 
Dubrovnik to Cavtat Ferry Service   
 
During the summer season there is regular transfer service by ferry boat between Dubrovnik and Cavtat.  Ferries run throughout the day and tickets are priced at 50 Kuna one way and 80 Kuna roundtrip.  The schedule is as follows:   
 
Departures from Dubrovnik: 10:00, 10:30, 11:30, 12:00, 12:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:30, 16:00, 17:00, 17:30, 18:30, 19:00   
 
Departures from Cavtat: 9:00, 9:30, 10:30, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00, 16:30, 17:30, 18:00   
 
Ferries depart from the Old Port in Dubrovnik’s Old Town and from the waterfront promenade in Cavtat’s Old Town.  The ferry schedules above are accurate as of July 2011.
 
Tuesday, June 21, 2011  
 
Staying Connected While in Croatia  
 
Staying connected while traveling in Croatia is easy and relatively inexpensive.  Much like the rest of Europe, Croatia uses GSM standard networks so any GSM mobile phone should work in the country (roaming rates will apply; please check with your local carrier).  For Americans, if your phone has a SIM card inside then it is probably on a GSM network.  If your phone is unlocked (meaning it can be used with multiple carriers) then you can buy a local pre-paid SIM card in Croatia and have a local phone number during your stay.  Most phones come locked (meaning it can only be used with the carrier from whom you bought it – AT&T, Verizon, Vodaphone, O2, etc).  If this is the case, you can usually pay a small fee to have your phone unlocked at an independent mobile phone store where you live or you can purchase unlocked phones online.  
 
Assuming you have an unlocked phone, pre-paid SIM cards are widely available throughout Croatia.  You can often buy them at airports, post offices, mobile phone shops, and even some convenience shops.  The two main carriers are T-Mobile and VIP, with T-Mobile being the most popular.  A SIM card usually costs about 100 Kuna (14 EUR) but comes with some credit.  If you use up all the credit you can purchase more at post offices, shops, ATMs, and newsstands (called “Tisak” in Croatia).  Having a local number is convenient for planning your trip on the go, making dinner reservations, and keeping in touch with other traveling companions within the country. 
 
You can also send the number to friends and family back home as receiving calls is free (although normal long distance charges will apply to the caller).  They can also be used for making international calls, but the rates are quite high and you will find your credit runs out quickly that way.  
 
For those that need to stay connected to the Internet while in Croatia there are a few options.  Most hotels and many private apartments offer Internet access and there are some cafes and restaurants with free Wifi.  Internet cafes are also ubiquitous in Croatia.   
 
If you want to have your own mobile Internet connection, T-Mobile and VIP both offer pre-paid mobile Internet devices for use with laptops.  They are USB devices so can only be used with laptops or tablet computers with USB ports.  T-Mobile sells a USB modem for 150 Kuna (about 20 EUR) which includes some data transfer.  You can then buy top-up cards for additional data transfer (they come in various bundles of MB).  It is fairly inexpensive and works well enough, but not quite as fast a DSL or cable modem.  USB modems are a great option for checking email, planning your trip on the fly, making phone calls via Skype, and posting your great Croatia photos to your Facebook page.    
 
 
Monday, June 13, 2011
 
Dubrovnik Local Bus Routes
 
The local Libertas bus system is a reliable and cost-effective way to get around the small city of Dubrovnik. Single ride tickets cost only 10 Kuna when purchased in advance and 12 Kuna when purchased on the bus. Popular city routes include the #1A, 1B, & 1C which run from Old Town’s Pile Gate to Mokosica with a stop at the main bus station in Gruz, the #4 which runs from the Pile Gate to the Hotel Palace in Lapad, and the #6 which runs from the Pile Gate to Lapad Babin Kuk. There are also buses that travel routes outside of the city of Dubrovnik, such as the #10 to Mlini, Plat, & Cavtat, #11 to Molunat, #12 to Slano, #15 to Ston, and the #21 to Orebic, where travelers may then catch a ferry to Korcula. Most routes operate 7 days per week from early in the morning until about midnight, but service may vary depending on the day of the week. Detailed schedule information may be found on the following websites:
 
 
 
 
Monday, June 06, 2011  
 
Currency to use in Croatia  
 
We often get the question “Should I use Euro or Kuna in Croatia?”.  Kuna is the official currency in Croatia and is most widely used.  Larger items such as villa or apartment rentals, car rentals, tours, and transfers are often priced in Euro, but can usually be paid for in either Euro or Kuna.  Local businesses such as restaurants and shops price in Kuna and most only accept Kuna.  Some restaurants, shops, and cafes in popular tourist areas such as Dubrovnik’s Old Town will accept Euro, but generally at a poor exchange rate.  Very few, if any, businesses accept British Pounds or U.S. Dollars.  
 
Visitors to Croatia can get Kuna from ATM machines at all the major airports and at banks in city centers throughout Croatia.  Most airports and cities also have exchange offices that will exchange a variety of currencies (and travelers’ checks) for Kuna.  However, the best rates are usually obtained at ATM machines.    
 
 
Monday, May 30, 2011  
 
Sweet Treats in the Old Town
 
Sugar and Spice bakery, Old Town, Dubrovnik  
 
The recently closed retail shop for Gabi Slasticarna in Gruz has reopened in the Old Town as the eponymous Sugar & Spice.  The new shop will continue to offer the same high-quality cakes and desserts, as well as some new menu items.  Tempting snacks include chocolate chip cookies (5 Kn), Zucchini bread (11 Kn), and a variety of sweet and savory muffins (9 Kn).   
 
Sugar & Spice bakery, Old Town, Dubrovnik
 
Sugar & Spice is located at Ulica Sv.Josipa 5 in the Old Town.  Drop in for an afternoon snack or a post-dinner treat.
 
     
Monday, May 23, 2011  
 
Self-Service Laundry in Dubrovnik
 
Sanja & Rosie's Launderette Logo      
 
A new self-service Laundromat has just opened in Dubrovnik.  Sanja & Rosie’s Launderette is located at Put Od Bosanke 2, just outside the Ploce Gate entrance to Old Town.  There are several professional washing machines and dryers available and they accept Kuna coins and notes.  One washing cycle costs 50 Kuna and dryers are priced at 10 Kuna for 10 minutes.  The Laundromat has a funky, retro vibe and is open daily from 7:00 am until 10:00 pm.  
 
Sanja & Rosie’s Launderette is a much-needed new service and will be very convenient for those staying in private apartments and villas in and around the Old Town.  For more information please visit their website, www.DubrovnikLaundry.com.
 
 
Tuesday, May 17, 2011  
 
Parking Near Dubrovnik’s Old Town  
 
One of the many features that make Dubrovnik’s Old Town so attractive is its pedestrian-only streets.  However, this ban on vehicular traffic makes arriving by car and finding parking difficult.  Drivers have 2 options: 1.) metered street/lot parking around the city walls and 2.) the public parking garage.             
 
Visitors can park for as long as they like using the “pay & display” system or for free on some parts of Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila. These are the two main streets in the Ploce neighborhood, just outside of the Old Town.  In addition, visitors may park in two “pay & display” parking lots located just behind the Old Town, near the Buza Gate.  Under this “pay & display” system, parkers may either buy a ticket from a machine and display it in their car windows or send an SMS (from a local Croatian mobile phone) with their registration number (license plate number) to 8201 or 8202, depending on the zone they are (look for signs for the correct zone).  They may then send additional SMS messages to add more time, one hour per message.  Parking under this “pay & display” system costs 5 – 15 Kuna per hour, depending on the zone.   
 
For those who cannot find a spot on the street or who plan to park for an extended period of time, the city operates an underground parking garage located just 10–15-minutes’ walking distance to the Old Town.  Here is a map that shows the location of the garage:  
 

View Larger Map
 
 
The following is a price list for parking (valid as of May 2011):
 
 
For daily, weekly, and monthly rates drivers must inform the attendant in advance to avail of the special rate.  Once an extended period parking pass is purchased, drivers may enter and exit the garage as many times as they like within that time period.    
 
 
Monday, April 11, 2011  
 
Seaplane Service to Connect Dubrovnik and Split to the Islands  
 
A recent article in the Croatian Times (Seaplanes to connect Adriatic towns with nearby islands) reports that European Coastal Airlines will begin linking Split and Dubrovnik with Korcula, Hvar, Vis, Lastovo, and other nearby islands.  The airline, which is a German-Croatian venture, also plans to connect the northern Croatian cities of Rijeka, Pula, and Zadar with Mali Losinj and Rab.  The first flights could begin as early as this summer and connections between other Croatian cities and islands will hopefully follow.  We’ll be sure to follow this story and try to provide more information once the airline officially launches its service.  
 
 
Wednesday, March 30, 2011  
 
Croatia Ferry Schedules 2011  
 
With the summer fast approaching many visitors to Croatia are planning their trips along the Dalmatian coast.  Most of those journeys will involve ferries to and from the region’s many islands.  Below are links to schedules for some of the more popular routes.  More routes can be found on the Jadrolinija website.  When reading the schedules please be sure to take note of the departure day as some schedules span over 2 days or more.  
 
 
 
 
 
International and coastal ferry tickets can be purchased through Jadrolinija’s online booking system.  Prices vary depending on date of travel and add-ons such as sleeping berths.  Local island ferry tickets must be purchased at Jadrolinija offices in Croatia and generally do not need to be reserved in advance.  
 
 
Saturday, March 19, 2011  
 
Croatia Takes a Step Closer to the EU  
 
The European Union Parliament recently adopted a resolution to complete Croatia’s EU membership negotiations within the first half of 2011.  The resolution said that Croatia has made substantial progress in introducing reforms, but includes a condition that Zagreb must continue to push ahead with reforms.  More specifically, it stated that Croatia has done well in the areas of constitutional amendments, judicial reforms, and cooperation with the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia, but that it still faces challenges in fighting corruption, support for refugees returning to Croatia, and the restructuring of shipyards.  The resolution also said that Croatia needs to proceed quickly with the prosecution of war crimes and improve witness protection.   
 
Croatia says it hopes to join the 27-member European Union in 2012, but a more realistic date is likely sometime in 2013 or 2014.  
 
 
Thursday, March 03, 2011  
 
Korcula Location Descriptions
 
Island of Korcula, Croatia  
 
Korcula Town  This typical medieval Dalmatian town is the center of interest on the sleepy, peaceful island of Korcula.  The town center has grown beyond the traditional walled town into a small business area with many restaurants, shops, and café bars just outside the town’s main entrance.  Also within easy walking distance of the town center are several small beaches, a bus stop, and a harbor where ferries from the mainland arrive. 
 
Positives:  a lovely place to spend a few relaxing days with lots of restaurants and café bars; lots of local flair during the summer with daily traditional music concerts and many art galleries; a good jumping-off point to explore the rest of the island by car.   
 
Drawbacks:  as with most walled towns, parking is limited during the busy summer months; the island’s best beaches are located on other parts of the island; the walled town can be noisy during the summer season.  
 
Lumbarda  Lying on the eastern end of the island of Korcula, this stunning locale is known for its well-manicured vineyards, olive fields, and perfect red sand beaches.  The Lumbarda area is home to the famous Grk wine and a few family-run restaurants serving only homemade culinary treats such as smoked ham and fresh fish from the sea.  The quaint village center is just 7 km’s from Korcula town, making trips to the daily market or dinner in one of Korcula’s many restaurants easily managed by public bus or car. 
 
Positives:  stunning scenery; great beaches; water sports such as kayaking and snorkeling are readily available; most accommodations offer parking. 
 
Drawbacks:  guests must take the public bus or have a car to reach Korcula Town.
 
 
Friday, February 25, 2011  
 
Dubrovnik Location Descriptions, Part 3           
 
Zupa Dubrovacka (Kupari, Mlini, Plat, Soline, Srebreno)  This region, located midway between Dubrovnik and Cavtat, is a still-relatively-undiscovered gem, often overlooked by first-time visitors to Dubrovnik.  It is perfect for guests who seek a peaceful vacation and who have an appreciation for unspoiled beauty.  Beaches in this area are among the cleanest and most spectacular on the Dubrovnik Riviera.  Mlini offers a charming waterfront promenade lined with café bars and a lovely shaded park, while Plat boasts one of the most picturesque pebble beaches in the area.  All of Zupa Dubrovacka (Zupa, for short) is within easy reach of Old Town Dubrovnik by local bus or ferry (from May to September), which makes stops in Plat and Mlini on its way from Cavtat to Dubrovnik.       
 
Positives:  more privacy & fewer crowds than Dubrovnik; lots of natural beauty & sea views; close proximity to several small swimming beaches; most accommodations have parking spaces; easy & frequent bus or ferry service to Old Town & Cavtat.   
 
Drawbacks:  though there are several local restaurants & cafes, they may not be enough to keep visitors entertained for an extended stay without trips to the Old Town or Cavtat; beaches are very popular with locals on weekends in the summer.  
 
Cavtat  This small, historic town, located just 30-minutes’ from Dubrovnik by car, bus, or ferry boat, is an excellent alternative to staying in the Old Town during the busy summer months.  It has an attractive waterfront promenade with lots of excellent restaurants, shops, and café bars.  Cavtat is also home to a few large tourist resorts and a couple of lovely beaches.  Luxury yachts dock here throughout the summer and visitors may catch ferries and tours to local islands right from the harbor.  The Dubrovnik Airport is just 10-minutes’ by bus or taxi, making Cavtat a convenient location for those flying in and out of the area. 
 
Positives:  more privacy & fewer crowds than in Dubrovnik; beautiful waterfront promenade with many restaurants and café bars; nice beaches.   
 
Drawbacks:  beaches may be crowded in the summer due to the large tourist resorts; many accommodations are located outside the town center, thereby requiring a long walk (or short bus ride) home after a night out or a trip to the Old Town by ferry; proximity to the airport means low flying planes occasionally disrupt the otherwise tranquil setting.  
 
 
Friday, February 18, 2011  
 
Dubrovnik Location Descriptions, Part 2        
 
Lapad  The Lapad peninsula is approximately 10 minutes’ driving distance from Old Town Dubrovnik and is home to a greater concentration of local businesses and residences than the Old Town.  However, its vacation appeal should not be overlooked.  It has many swimming beaches, hotels, restaurants, café bars, and a lovely pedestrian-only promenade which should not be missed.  Local bus service around Dubrovnik (including to & from Old Town) makes Lapad suitable for guests traveling without a car.  Taxis are also plentiful.   
 
Positives:  does not get as crowded as the Old Town in the summer; prices on everything from food to accommodation are generally lower than in the Old Town; greater selection of “local” restaurants; relatively flat terrain makes walking less strenuous. 
 
Drawbacks:  heavy traffic in the summer months can lengthen the trip to the Old Town to a half hour or more; lacks the charm and beautiful architecture of the Old Town  
 
Lozica/Mokosica/Zaton/Stikovica  These small towns are located on the other side of the bridge to the North-East of Dubrovnik.  Zaton is a small fishing village that almost completely closes down during the winter months, except for its small population of year-round residents.  During the summer, however, it provides guests with a true taste of the Mediterranean with lots of small coves for swimming and 2 of Dubrovnik’s best local seafood restaurants.  Stikovica shares the same bay as Zaton and is just a couple of kilometers closer to Dubrovnik.  It is a small residential village on a hillside with a nice beach and one restaurant.  Lozica has only one restaurant and no shops, but it does offer spectacular sea views and a great location just 10-minutes’ driving distance from Dubrovnik.  Likewise, nearby Mokosica is located in Rijeka Dubrovacka, a small inlet 7 km from Dubrovnik known as home to the ACI Marina, where luxury yachts stop off while sailing the coast.  There are numerous swimming spots along the inlet as well as larger beaches located just a couple of miles away.  There are a few markets in and around Mokosica and a seaside restaurant and bar at the Marina.   
 
Positives:  tranquility, seclusion, views, and a true taste of Mediterranean life. 
 
Drawbacks:  a car is highly recommended (though not required in Zaton); may be too far from Dubrovnik for some; businesses close down from October to May each year.   
 
 
Wednesday, February 09, 2011  
 
Dubrovnik Location Descriptions, Part 1  
 
The next few blog entries will focus on where to stay in and around Dubrovnik.  There will be detailed descriptions of each location as well as the positives and negatives of staying there.  I hope this is useful for first time visitors to Dubrovnik or for those returning to Dubrovnik but looking for an off-the-beaten-path place to stay. (View the entire list now)  
 
Old Town (MAP) This beautiful and traditional walled town is the historical center of Dubrovnik and the place most visitors head to first.  It offers many sights including churches, a Franciscan monastery, civic palaces, and the Old Port.  It also has a high concentration of restaurants, café bars, and shops.  Daily ferry boats depart from the Old Port to Lokrum Island, Cavtat, and the Elaphites.   
 
Positives:  central location, no need for a car, pedestrian-only streets (great for families with children), easy walking distance to Banje Beach, several nightlife options.   
 
Drawbacks:  no cars allowed within city walls and in the summer finding parking outside city walls is difficult; streets get very crowded in the summer and noise may be a problem at night; few apartments have balconies/terraces; no sea views.   
 
Walking Distance to Old Town  By this we mean anywhere between 3 and 25 minutes walking distance.  The main reasons for staying outside of Old Town are views, more space, less noise, and in some cases, parking.  Accommodations in Ploce are close to Banje and Sv Jacob beaches and many of them have spectacular views…but keep in mind that views often come at a price—namely long flights of stairs or steep uphill climbs when walking back from Old Town.  Pile is the area just outside Old Town’s Pile Gate, while Ilina Glavica is a residential neighborhood about 15-20 minutes away.  Gorica is a residential sea-side neighborhood which is home to the new 5-star Rixos hotel.  It is well positioned midway between Lapad and the Old Town, about a 20 – 25 minute walk from either.            
 
Positives:  sea views, more space for your money, parking spaces (in some cases), quieter surroundings, proximity to beaches.   
 
Drawbacks:  some apartments require strenuous uphill or upstairs climbs, the walk to Old Town may be too far for those who wish to visit the center several times per day.  
 
 
Friday, February 04, 2011  
 
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik  
 
Banje Beach, Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
Most first time visitors to Dubrovnik stay in or within walking distance of the Old Town.  The Old Town is the historic center of Dubrovnik and has the largest concentration of sights, restaurants, shops, cafes, and bars.  It is also a good transportation hub with public buses, taxi boats, and tours departing regularly from the Pile Gate and the old port.  There are many spots for swimming off of the rocks around the Old Town and Banje beach (one of the nicest, but busiest beaches in Dubrovnik) is just 10 minutes away by foot.  
 
The downside to staying in the Old Town is that it can be noisy at times and views and outdoor space are rare.  Those who want a sea view and a balcony or terrace are better to look in the neighborhoods surrounding the Old Town, Ploce & Pile.  There are many private apartments to rent in these areas within a short 10 – 15 minute walk to the Old Town, but keep in mind that great sea views generally come with many steps, sometimes as many as 300 or 400.   For those looking to spend more time at the beach or for a swimming pool, it is best to look a little further from the Old Town. 
 
There are no swimming pools in the Old Town itself and only a few within walking distance of the Old Town.  Swimming pools are generally found at larger 4- and 5-bedroom villas dotted along the coastline in villages such as Zaton, Stikovica, Lozica, Mikosica, Mlini, Plat, and Cavtat.  There are also many beautiful beaches in these areas, but their locations outside of Dubrovnik generally require either a rental car or the public bus.  
 
For those who can do without a pool but want to spend a lot of time at the beach, Lapad is a great choice.  It is a mostly residential neighborhood just a couple of kilometers from the Old Town.  Lapad has several nice child-friendly beaches and a good selection of restaurants and cafes.  There is also regular public bus service to the Old Town, which is just 10 minutes away.  
 
This is just an overview of where to stay in Dubrovnik.  A more detailed location guide to Dubrovnik locations is coming soon!
 
 
Monday, January 31, 2011  
 
Direct U.S. to Croatia Flights Now Possible  
 
American aviation authorities have reportedly upped Croatia’s air traffic safety evaluation, paving the way for direct flights between the two countries.  According to a recent article in the Croatian Times (Croatia to Get Direct Flight to US, Croatian Times, 29.01.11), American and Croatian air carriers will now be able to reach codeshare agreements, making the direct flights a possibility.  In fact, Croatia Airlines and United Airlines already have a codeshare agreement in place from 2007 which can now link Washington D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Chicago directly to Zagreb, Split, and Dubrovnik.  The flights may be direct, or still have stopovers in European cities, but at least customers will be able to book their tickets straight through from the U.S. to Croatia with one airline.   
 
The new safety evaluation should lead to more American tourists visiting Croatia.  The first airline to take advantage of the decision will likely be North American Airlines who is in negotiations with the Zagreb airport to begin direct charter flights from New York to Zagreb in the summer of 2011.  The Zagreb airport is reportedly doing its part to attract new airlines by offering fee-free landings to some carriers.    
 
 
Tuesday, January 25, 2011  
 
Direct flights from Moscow to Dubrovnik in 2011  
 
Russian airline Aeroflot has announced that it will operate direct flights between Moscow and Dubrovnik this year.  The new flight route will boost the number of Russian tourists arriving in the Adriatic city, which is good news for the local economy.  Croatian visa requirements for Russians have also been relaxed in recent years, with Russian citizens only needing a letter of invitation or prepaid travel voucher from a travel agency to enter the country.   
 
Flights will begin on 27 May 2011 and will operate until 29 October 2011.  This is the first time Moscow and Dubrovnik will be connected by regularly scheduled, direct flights.  
 
Friday, December 31, 2010  
 
Grgich Hills Estate Winery
 
Grgich Winery, Napa Valley, California  
 
We recently had the pleasure of visiting the Grgich Hills Estate winery in Napa Valley, California.  Having already visited the small and understated Grgich winery on the Peljesac Peninsula in Croatia, our expectations were tempered.  However, upon arriving at the family winery just off of St. Helena Highway in Rutherford we immediately realized we were in for a pleasant surprise.  The winery and tasting room is housed in a large, rustic building with beautiful surroundings.  The winery’s Croatian history is clear to anyone familiar with the Croatian flag; the highly recognizable red & white check motif is used in abundance throughout the estate.  
 
Grgich Winery, Napa Valley, California  Grgich Winery, Napa Valley, California
 
The Grgich Hills tasting room is one of the most popular in Napa, owing to its famous owner’s international recognition at the celebrated Paris tasting of 1976.  Then, in a blind tasting, a panel of distinguished French judges chose Mike Grgich’s 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay as the finest white wine in the world.  This stunning achievement helped to legitimize California’s bourgeoning wine industry and to launch the Grgich Hills Winery.  Grgich Hills Winery became Grgich Hills Estate Winery in 2003 when it began producing wine only from its own vineyards, which are all certified organic and biodynamic.  Unlike many of its neighbors, Grgich has resisted the temptation to grow large, but instead concentrates on achieving a consistently superior level of quality.  Having tasted several wines on my visit to the winery, I can attest to Grgich’s success in this regard.  
 
 
Monday, November 29, 2010
 
Dubrovnik Under Water  
 
Last week the city of Dubrovnik was drenched by several inches of rain and its streets were flooded. The historic Old Town was underwater in places and some residents were trapped at home. The heavy rain was accompanied by power outages and landslides. Visit the BBC NEWS Website for video of the flooding and have a look at the photos below:
 
Flood in Dubrovnik, Croatia  Flood in Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
Flood in Dubrovnik, Croatia  Flood in Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
 
Sunday, November 14, 2010

The Residences at Dubrovnik Sun Gardens

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Sales have begun in a new luxury property development near Dubrovnik.  The development, named Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, is located on 1 kilometer of pristine Adriatic beachfront in the village of Orasac, about 20 minutes from Dubrovnik’s Old Town by car.  The residences are part of a luxury 5-star resort that includes a Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, sports center, three outdoor tennis courts, three outdoor swimming pools, 13 restaurants & bars, a shopping promenade, and a children’s activity center with playground and pool.  The resort is positioned among lemon, orange, and olive trees and looks out across the sea to the Elaphiti islands.  

The development is the first of its kind in Croatia, with buyers enjoying the full benefits of ownership, but with the requirement that they rent the property to short-term guests for all but 5 weeks during high season.  Owners have unlimited usage of the property at other times of the year.  The rental income is shared with the property management company, who handles all of the bookings and cleaning of the apartments.  

Prices at the Dubrovnik Sun Gardens begin at about 175,000 EUR for a 44 square meter 1-bedroom apartment and 250,000 EUR for a 62 square meter 2-bedroom apartment.  In addition, there is a annual management fee of about 110 EUR per square meter.  For more information please visit the Dubrovnik Sun Gardens website.



Friday, November 05, 2010
   
 
Historic Lighthouse Becomes Luxury Accommodation   

Lighthouse Accommodation in Dubrovnik
 
The latest addition to the luxury accommodation market in Dubrovnik is a historic lighthouse on its own island just off the Lapad Peninsula.  The island and lighthouse is offered by Adriatic Luxury Hotels, who owns several hotels in Dubrovnik including the Hotel Excelsior, Hotel Bellevue, and Hotel Dubrovnik Palace.  The lighthouse was built in 1872, but has been recently renovated to a luxury standard and now includes 3 double and 1 singled bedroom in 140 square meters of space.  The island is accessed by boat transfer from the Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, which is just 900 meters away.  Prices for the lighthouse are set at 510 EUR per day in July & August and 350 EUR per day in June, September, & October.  For more information please contact Adriatic Luxury Hotels through their website.

 
Sunday, October 31, 2010   
 
Multiplex Cinema Coming to Dubrovnik   
 
According to a recent article in the Dubrovnik Times (Dubrovnik Finally Gets 3D Cinema) Dubrovnik’s first multiplex cinema will open in June 2011.  The cinema will be a part of the “Dvori Lapad” residential & commercial complex near Lapad beach.  The article says there will be 3 cinemas, each with 600 seats, as well as restaurants, cafes, and a supermarket.  The complex will also have underground parking for 180 cars.  In this writer’s opinion, planning for 1800 seats seems ambitious for the small city of Dubrovnik and parking for only 180 cars, grossly inadequate.  Perhaps the project’s scope was conceived with tourists in mind but I question whether an indoor multiplex will appeal to summer holiday makers.
 
 
Wednesday, October 27, 2010   
 
New Flights from Dubrovnik to Venice and Athens Announced   
 
Croatia Airlines will begin operating flights from Dubrovnik to Venice and Athens in the summer of 2011.  Dubrovnik to Venice is a new route this year and will operate twice per week on Thursday and Saturday beginning on June 16, 2011.  Dubrovnik to Athens is a new route created by adding a stop in Dubrovnik to the former Zagreb to Athens flight.  The route will operate 3 times per week beginning on May 31, 2011.  The addition of these routes should help to bring new tourists to Dubrovnik, as well as make it easier for visitors to Dubrovnik to continue on to other European destinations once their stay is complete.  For more information, visit the Croatia Airlines website.

 
Friday, August 13, 2010   
 
Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival   
 
The 10th annual Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival will soon be underway in Dubrovnik. The festival begins on Wednesday, September 1st with a performance at Rector's Palace and continues until Sunday, September 12th. Concerts will be held in the beautiful 17th century Rector’s Palace in Dubrovnik’s Old Town, the terrace at Revelin's Fortress, and at the Dubrovnik Cathedral. The festival attracts musicians from all around the world, as well as classical music enthusiasts who return to Dubrovnik every year to enjoy the event. For more information and to purchase tickets, please visit the festival website.  
 
 

Sunday, August 01, 2010   
 
Currency in Croatia   
 
Many visitors to Croatia are confused as to which currency to bring.  The official currency is Kuna, but when planning a trip many things are quoted in Euro.  The short answer is that both are useful.  Larger expenses such as hotel rooms, apartment rentals, tours, and long taxi trips are often quoted in Euro and can be paid in either Euro or Kuna.  Most daily expenses such as meals at restaurants; shopping for food, clothing, or souvenirs; and local transportation are priced in Kuna and should be paid for with Kuna.  Many local businesses only accept Kuna and those that do accept Euro are unlikely to give a favorable exchange rate.    
 
Kuna may be purchased at one of the many banks or currency exchange places in town centers throughout Croatia, but the best rates are generally obtained by using ATM machines.  ATM machines are ubiquitous in Croatia and can be found in most towns and at all major airports such as those in Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb.  As a general rule locals will use the rate of 7.3 Kuna = 1 EUR when converting currencies.  For exact rates and for conversions to other currencies please visit a currency website such as www.xe.com.  

 

Monday, July 26, 2010   
 
Montenegro Bus Schedules   
 
We get many questions about travel to and around Montenegro by bus.  When traveling to Montenegro from Dubrovnik please consult the following bus schedule for departures to Kotor, Budva, Herceg Novi, and Podgorica: Libertas Dubrovnik.  When traveling around Montenegro or departing Kotor for Dubrovnik please consult the following schedule: Kotor Schedules.  It is difficult to find bus schedules for other destinations in Montenegro as they are not published online, but information can be obtained by calling the bus stations directly at the following numbers:   
 
Ulcinj:  +382 30 413 225 
Bar:  +382 30 346 141  
Sutomore:  +382 30 373 128 
Budva:  +382 33 456 000  
Tivat:  +382 32 672 620 
Kotor:  +382 32 325 809  
Herceg Novi:  +382 31 321 225 
Podgorica:  +382 20 620 430  
Kolasin:  +382 20 864 033 
Bijelo Polje:  +382 50 432 219  
Niksic:  +382 40 213 018 
Berane:  +382 51 234 828  
Pljevlja:  +382 52 323 114
 
 
Thursday, July 22, 2010
   
 
Dubrovnik Property Prices   
 
According to a recent article in The Dubrovnik Times (Property Prices in Dubrovnik Stable, 20 July 2010) property prices in Dubrovnik have stabilized at an average price of 4600 EUR per square meter.  This makes Dubrovnik more expensive than Istanbul, where the average property price is reported to be 4500 EUR per square meter, but less expensive than Poland, whose average price is 4700 EUR per square meter.  The article goes on to say that Croatia’s neighbor to the south, Montenegro, is still quite a bit cheaper at 3580 EUR per square meter.  The reasons cited for the stable prices in Dubrovnik are the city’s rich cultural and historical heritage, the building of a new highway, and better transportation links to the world.
 

F
riday, July 16, 2010   
 
Day Trip to Mljet   
 
Visitors to the island of Mljet are rewarded with an oasis of peaceful tranquility and unspoiled nature.  Much of the island is covered with forests, vineyards, secluded coves, and small villages.  To ensure that Mljet remains untouched by large hotels and resorts the western half of the island has been named a national park.   
 
At only one hour from Dubrovnik, the island of Mljet makes a great day trip for those seeking a little quiet relaxation.  High-speed ferries leave from Dubrovnik’s main port in Gruz each morning and return in the early evening.  Schedules can be found on the Nona Ana ferry website.  Once on the island, visitors can rent bicycles or explore by foot, stopping at out-of-the-way coves for a swim, cafes for a drink, or a restaurant for lunch.  For those that are not ready to return to Dubrovnik at the end of the day, there is some private accommodation on the island, but it is limited and should be booked in advance.
 

Thursday, July 8, 2010   
 
D’Vino Wine Bar Reopens   
 
Great news for wine lovers in Dubrovnik - D'Vino wine bar is once again open for business.  After a brief hiatus following the sad and sudden passing of its much-loved founder, Cam Wilson, D'Vino is resuming operations under new management.  The new owners, Sasha and Rob, don’t plan to make any material changes to the bar and will pick-up where Cam left off, offering the same cozy, relaxed atmosphere where locals and tourists alike can meet up with old friends or make new ones over a glass of wine.    
 
The bar, whose unique space achieves a perfect balance between rustic and chic, offers an extensive wine list representing many different regions of Croatia as well as Italy, France, Spain, Australia, and South America.  A visit to D’Vino is a great opportunity to sample various Croatian vintages by the glass and to learn what each region has to offer.    
  
D’Vino Wine bar is located at Palmoticeva 4a in Dubrovnik’s Old Town.
 
 
Thursday, July 1, 2010   
 
Libertas Film Festival in Dubrovnik   
 
Dubrovnik’s 6th annual Libertas Film Festival kicks off tomorrow night in the Old Town.  The festival, which will take place from 02 to 06 July 2010, screens narratives, documentaries, and short films from around the world.  This year there will be a special focus on films from Russia with 4 films submitted from Russian directors.  The films will be shown both indoors and outside this year at venues that include Jadran open-air cinema in the Old Town, Rector’s Palace, and Lapad beach.  Special Guest this year is the actress Gabourey Sidibe, star of the recent Oscar-nominated film Precious.  Don’t miss this fantastic opportunity to see some great independent films in beautiful, historic surroundings.   A schedule of films and information on where to buy tickets can be found on the Libertas Film Festival Dubrovnik website.
 
 
Thursday, June 24, 2010  
 
Travel from Dubrovnik to Montenegro  
 
Even before gaining its independence from Serbia in 2006 Montenegro was on its way to becoming a major tourist destination.  Most visitors to Montenegro arrive at Tivat airport, near the bay of Kotor.  However, many travelers visit Montenegro for a few days in conjunction with a stay in Croatia or even as a day-trip from Dubrovnik.  The most popular destinations are Kotor, Budva, and Sveti Stefan, all of which are on the coast.  The following is a brief overview of the available travel options from Dubrovnik to Montenegro:  
 
1.) Bus: There are daily bus routes from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Budva, and Herceg Novi.  Buses to all 3 destinations leave Dubrovnik's main bus station in Gruz Harbor at 10:30 hrs each morning and 15:00 hrs each afternoon with an additional bus at 20:30 hrs on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays.  There is an additional daily bus to Herceg Novi departing at 15:30 hrs.  For those visiting Montenegro's capital city, Podgorica, buses leave Dubrovnik daily at 15:00 hrs.  Bus schedules can be viewed online at Libertas Dubrovnik.   
 
2.) Taxi: For travelers that are tight on time or want a bit more comfort, taxi transfers are a good way to get to Montenegro.  A transfer from Dubrovnik to Kotor or the Tivat airport costs approximately 180 EUR for 1 - 3 people, 200 EUR for 4 - 8 people, and 400 EUR for 9 - 18 people.  For more information on taxi transfers, please see the article Taxi Service in Dubrovnik.   
 
3.) Rental Car: Most rental companies allow cars to be taken to Montenegro, but be sure to check that they have supplied you with the necessary insurance and paperwork before taking the car over the border.  If the car has not crossed the border recently, customs agents will charge you a 10 EUR Eco-Tax and put a sticker on the car that is valid for 1 year.  The main border crossing on the coastal road is heavily trafficked and wait times can be as long as 2 hours during the busy summer season.  There is a smaller border crossing with minimal or no wait times on the road from Molunat to Montenegro; if you can find it, it's worth leaving the main road to avoid the traffic.  Just follow the signs for Molunat and the Prevlaka National Park, and then take a left when you reach the sea.
 
 
Thursday, June 17, 2010  
 
Parking in Dubrovnik  
 
One of the many features that make Dubrovnik’s Old Town so attractive is its pedestrian-only streets.  However, this ban on vehicular traffic makes arriving by car and finding parking very difficult.        
 
Visitors can park using the “pay & display” system or for free on some parts of Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila. These are the two main streets in the Ploce neighborhood, just outside of the Old Town.  In addition, visitors may park in two “pay & display” parking lots located just behind the Old Town, near the Buza Gate.  Under this “pay & display” system, drivers may either buy a ticket from a machine and display it in their car windows or send an SMS (from a local Croatian mobile phone) with their registration number (license plate number) to 8202.  They may then send additional SMS messages to add more time, one hour per message.  Parking under this “pay & display” system costs 5 Kuna per hour, but rates sometimes increase to 10 Kuna per hour during July & August.   
 
For those who cannot find a spot on the street or who plan to park for an extended period of time, there is an underground parking garage located just 10–15-minutes’ walking distance to the Old Town.  Here is a map that shows the location of the new garage:
  

View Larger Map
 
 
In the past there was a free shuttle bus to the Old Town from April to November, but service has been discontinued in 2010.  The following is a price list for parking:  
 
1st 3 hours:  6 Kuna per hour*
After 1st 3 hours: 3 Kuna per hour*
24 hour ticket**: 60 Kuna*  
 
*Please note that these rates apply from September to June, but they may increase to 10 Kuna per hour during the busy summer months.  
 
**Please note that drivers must notify the parking attendant that they wish to buy a 24-hour pass immediately after parking.  If they do not, they will be charged the normal hourly rate, which will equal 81 Kuna for 24 hours.  Once a 24-hour pass is purchased, drivers may enter and exit the garage as many times as they like within a 24-hour period.
 
 
Thursday, June 10, 2010  
 
Travel from Dubrovnik to Korcula  
 
A popular stop along the Dalmatian Coast is the Island of Korcula.  It lies just off of the Peljesac Peninsula, approximately 2 hours northwest of Dubrovnik by car or ferry.  There are 2 routes used to reach Korcula from Dubrovnik; the following is an overview of each:  
 
1.) Direct ferry from Dubrovnik: During the summer season, Jadrolinija operates a ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, & Sundays.  The ferry is direct on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but makes a stop in Mljet on all other days.  The journey takes 3 hours direct and 4 hours and 10 minutes with the stop in Mljet.  Tickets are priced at 14,50 EUR per person and 53,00 EUR for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season).  Detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.  
 
In addition to the Jadrolinja ferry, Nona Ana operates a high-speed catamaran from Dubrovnik to Korcula in July & August only.  It runs 4 times per week:  
 
Monday & Saturday: departs Dubrovnik at 9:15, arrives in Korcula at 11:45
Tuesday & Thursday: departs Dubrovnik at 8:00, arrives in Korcula at 10:35  
 
Schedules may be viewed on the G&V Line website.  Tickets must be purchased at the port prior to departure and cannot be purchased online in advance.  
 
2.) Travel to Orebic and then ferry to Korcula:  Orebic is a small town on the western end of the Peljesac Peninsula, approximately 2 hours drive from Dubrovnik.  From Orebic, there is a local car and passenger ferry to Korcula that operates at least 12 times per day, 7 days per week.  The ferry costs approximately 14 Kuna per person (about 2 EUR) and 64 Kuna (about 9 EUR) for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season).  Detailed schedule and pricing information can be found on the Korcula Info website.   
 
Travel from Dubrovnik to Orebic can be accomplished in 4 ways: rental car, public bus, long-distance bus, or minibus transfer.  If you rent a car you will have to take it with you to Korcula and then return it to the mainland after your stay on the island as there is nowhere to leave the car in Orebic.  The public bus is a good, reasonably-priced option, but it only leaves Dubrovnik's main bus station once per day at 14:15 hrs, except on Sundays and holidays when it leaves only at 18:00 hrs (schedule can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik).  Once in Orebic, you will have to buy tickets for the passenger ferry to Korcula.  There is also a direct long-distance bus from Dubrovnik to Korcula that leaves Dubrovnik's main bus station once per day at 15:00 hrs as well as at 18:00 hrs on Sundays (schedule can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik).  This option takes passengers directly to Korcula and the ferry ticket is included in the price of the bus ticket.  
 
The travel agency Korkyra operates a daily minibus from Dubrovnik to Korcula leaving from their office just outside the Ploce Gate between 2 - 4 pm every afternoon.  The bus holds up to 17 people and tickets are priced at 120 Kuna per person plus 10 Kuna per bag.  For an extra 10 Kuna per person they will pick you up at your accommodation anywhere in Dubrovnik.  Transfers must be reserved in advance by email (info@korkyra.info) or by calling +385 20 711 750.
 
 
Friday, June 4, 2010
 
Travel from Dubrovnik to Split  
 
With the summer season fast approaching, many tourists will be traveling up and down the Dalmatian coast, visiting numerous small towns and islands along the way.  One of the most popular routes is Dubrovnik to Split or vice-versa.  There are 4 modes of transportation between these two cities; the following is an overview of the time and cost involved in each:  
 
1.) Ferry: This is the most pleasant way to travel, but also the slowest.  The ferry route goes from Dubrovnik – Korcula – Hvar – Split and then the reverse in the other direction.  The journey takes approximately 10 hours and costs 17,50 EUR per person and 55,00 EUR for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season).  The ferry operates twice weekly, on Thursdays and Sundays from Dubrovnik to Split and on Tuesdays and Saturdays from Split to Dubrovnik.  Detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.
 
2.) Bus: This is the most economical and most convenient way to travel.  Buses depart Split and Dubrovnik almost every hour with over 15 trips per day.  Tickets cost between 90 and 120 Kuna (between 12 and 16 EUR) per person, each way.  The journey generally takes 4.5 to 5 hours and offers spectacular sea views along the way.  Detailed bus schedules can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik.
 
3.) Private car transfer: This is the most comfortable, but most expensive way to travel.  The route will be the same as by bus, but will be slightly faster as it does not involve any stops along the way (unless you want to stop).  Prices for private transfers vary, but are approximately 200 – 240 EUR each way for 1 – 3 people, 240 – 260 EUR for 4 – 8 people, and 500 – 550 EUR for 9 – 18 people.  Transfers may be arranged at Taxi Service Dubrovnik or Queen Service Dubrovnik.
 
4.) Rental car: This mode of transportation offers the most flexibility as it allows you to stop frequently and explore some of the beautiful coastal villages along the way.  Most car rental companies charge an additional 1-way return fee for rentals in Dubrovnik with returns in Split (or vice-versa).  Major rental companies such as Avis, Hertz, and Europcar have offices in both cities, but for better rates contact Euro Car Rentals, a local Dubrovnik company.
 
 
Sunday, May 30, 2010
 
Property Prices Higher in Dubrovnik  
 
According to a recent article in the Croatian Times the May 2010 sale price of apartments in the city of Dubrovnik increased by 8.4% over April 2010.  This brought the average price up to 3,597 EUR per square meter.  The increase was the greatest among Croatian cities with Split seeing only a 2.5% increase.  Many other cities in Croatia, including its capital Zagreb, saw decreases in property values.  It is unclear if this is the start of a trend of growing prices in Dubrovnik or if it was merely an anomaly due to a few sales of expensive properties.  The per-square-meter price measure is not always an accurate portrayal of market trends as it fails to take into consideration such variables as the condition and location of the property.  It is a particularly untrustworthy measure during times of low volume sales such as now.
 
 
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
 
Day Trip to Mostar  
 
Mostar Bridge, BiH
 
One of the best day trips that can be made from Dubrovnik is to the city of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina.  The small city straddles the Neretva River with its famous bridge, Stari Most, linking the two sides of the city.  On one side lies the ethnically Croat Catholic part of the city and the other side houses the cobbled Ottoman Quarter, home to the city’s Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims).  This Ottoman Quarter is home to 16th century mosques, Turkish style houses, artist studios, and cafes.  
 
Mostar is located about 2 hours from Dubrovnik by car.  Many of the larger tour companies in Dubrovnik offer bus trips to Mostar, but it is best visited on a private tour.  Prices for private day tours are as follows:  
 
1-3 people:      210 EUR
4-7 people:      230 EUR
8-18 people:    460 EUR  
 
According to local law, if visitors to Mostar would like a guided walking tour, it must be provided by a local Mostar resident.  A local guide may be hired for an additional 50 EUR.   
 
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Wednesday, May 12, 2010  
 
A Dish Called Wanda  
 
Owned and operated by a talented chef from Los Angeles, Wanda turns out Italian food that stands out from the rest.  Menu items are dictated by in-season local ingredients, but are prepared using traditional Italian techniques with a Californian flair.  In addition to standard pastas and meat dishes, there are daily specials such as fettuccine with wild boar sauce, juniper berries and white truffle oil, and John Dory with arugula, lentils, and a mustard balsamic reduction.  Wanda is a bit more expensive than many other Dubrovnik restaurants, but they offer a “Light Lunch” menu with a selection of dishes priced at 10 EUR (about 70 Kuna) or less.  The staff are friendly and attentive and are happy to offer recommendations when asked.  Make sure to save room for the excellent homemade Tiramisu -- the best we’ve tasted in Dubrovnik.  
 
Wanda is located at Prijeko 8 in Dubrovnik’s Old Town.  Reservations may be made by calling +385 98 944 9317 or visiting their website.
 
 
Thursday, April 29, 2010  
 
Cruise Ship Season Arrives in Dubrovnik  
 
On Saturday, 24 May 2010 five cruise ships docked in Dubrovnik, officially opening the cruising season.  The ships brought a combined total of over 10,000 passengers to the city that day.    Most residents of Dubrovnik agree that one of the city’s biggest problems is the number of cruise ships docking in its port. 
 
Over a million passengers per year visit the small Adriatic city, often leading to overcrowding and congestion.  Cruise ship passengers generally descend on the Old Town in the thousands, making the Stradun and city walls impassable.  In fact, officials have been forced to temporarily close down the Old Town entrances several times in recent years due to overcrowding.  Local business owners also consider the crowding to be a problem as cruise ship passengers spend very little money in the city.  Most passengers are only in town for a few hours and buy nothing more than an ice cream or a T-shirt.  Many do not wish to exchange Euros or Dollars for Kuna for such a short period, so they buy nothing.   
 
The concern among local business owners is that the thousands of cruise ship passengers walking the city streets will crowd out independent travelers who are more likely to patronize local restaurants, café bars, and shops.  If Dubrovnik gains a reputation for overcrowding, many of these independent travelers may stay away completely.  For the moment, however, the docking of cruise ships brings revenue to the city in the form of hefty docking tariffs and souvenir shopping near the port and on the Stradun.  
 
For those that wish to avoid the crowds, the Dubrovnik Port Authority website has a schedule of cruise ship traffic and a color-coded chart showing how many passengers will be in the city on any given day.
 
Saturday, April 24, 2010  
 
Dubrovnik Foreign Circle  
 
The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle is an organization of foreigners living either full-time or part-time in Dubrovnik.  They are a not-for-profit entity whose mission is to serve the community and to promote friendship and understanding between its members and the community of Dubrovnik.  The group has organized successful fundraisers to raise funds for community projects such as the establishment of the Dubrovnik Children’s Library and Story Telling in a Foreign Language at local schools.  The group also organizes activities for its members such as picnics, wine tours, lectures, Croatian language classes, and an annual Christmas party.  Monthly membership meetings are held throughout the year at the American College of Management and Technology.  
 
Those interested in joining can contact the foreign circle directly through their new website, www.dubrovnikforeigncircle.com.
 
 
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
 
Dubrovnik Bar Guide  
 
Dubrovnik is not known for its nightlife; those looking for an all-night party scene with an international crowd and world-renowned DJs would be best to go to Hvar.  That said, a good time can be had in Dubrovnik if you know where to go.  The following is a list of our favorite bars.  Most are frequented by both locals and foreigners and are fairly laid-back places, perfect for a glass of wine in the evening or a few beers at night.  They’re also good bars in which to meet other travelers passing through.  
 
D’Vino, Palmoticeva 4a  Dubrovnik’s only real wine bar, D’Vino offers a cozy atmosphere and an extensive wine list representing many different regions of Croatia as well as Italy, France, Spain, Australia, and South America. A visit to D’Vino is a great opportunity to sample various Croatian vintages by the glass and to learn what each region has to offer.  
 
Katie O'Connor's Irish Pub, Dropceva 4a  Irish and Croatian beers on tap, free wireless Internet access, and a friendly atmosphere make this an excellent place to kick back and relax for an hour or four.  This is also Dubrovnik’s go-to spot for European football, rugby, and cricket.  
 
Buza Bar, Od Kastela  Follow the sign for “Cold Drinks” and duck through an opening in the city walls to find this cliffside hangout. The atmosphere is casual (plastic chairs and cans of beer) but the views are first-class, making it one of the most popular bars in Dubrovnik, especially at sunset. It is also a popular spot among locals for swimming from the rocks below.  
 
Piano Bar at the Hotel Excelsior, Frana Supila, 10 minutes’ walking distance past Ploce Gate  This elegant hotel bar has a spacious outdoor terrace with the best views in Dubrovnik. It is a great place to have a drink while watching the sun set over the Old Town.  
 
The Gaffe, Miha Pracata 4  Another good place to stop into for a pint. The inside can get a bit smoky when busy, but the large outdoor garden offers a good alternative.
 
 
Friday, April 16, 2010
 
Useful Numbers in Dubrovnik  
 
Below is a list of some phone numbers that you may find useful while in Dubrovnik.  It's important to at least know the emergency numbers in case of an accident.  
 
Police: 92
Fire Dapartment: 93
Ambulance: 94
Hospital: +385 20 431 777
Roadside Assistance: 987
Public Emergency Center: 985
Operator: 988
International Operator: 901
International Directory Inquiries: 902
Dubrovnik Airport: +385 20 773 377
Taxi Service: +385 20 970
Central Bus Station: +385 20 357 088
Local City Bus Station: +385 423 724
Jadrolinija Ferries: +385 20 418 000
Coast Guard: +385 20 443 555
Harbor Master: +385 20 418 988
ACI Marina: +385 20 455 020
 
 
Saturday, April 10, 2010  
 
Kebab shop in Dubrovnik  
 
When looking for something quick to eat in the Old Town there is a new alternative to a sandwich at Mrvica or a slice of pizza at Oliva: a doner kebab.  A new kebab shop has opened on Od Siroka, just next to Restaurant Proto.  The shop displays the lamb spinning on a vertical skewer in the window, from which they shave thin slices of meat for your sandwich.  It is served on a freshly baked pita with salad and a special sauce.  A donor kebab is a bit pricey at 35 Kuna and 50 Kuna with pomme frites, but it is a nice change of pace for Dubrovnik.
 
 
Monday, April 5, 2010
 
The Village of Cavtat
 
Village of Cavtat, Croatia
 
The small village of Cavtat is located on the Adriatic Sea, just 18 kilometers south of Dubrovnik. Its proximity to the historic walled city makes it a great base for exploring Dubrovnik and its surroundings. It also provides a nice escape from the often-crowded Old Town of Dubrovnik during the summer months.
 
Cavtat's main attraction is its beautiful harbor and waterfront area. Unlike in Dubrovnik, visiting yachts can moor directly to the waterfront promenade and visit the many restaurants and café bars just across the street. Likewise, diners relaxing at the restaurants and cafes can watch the yachts entering and exiting the harbor. Cavtat also offers some of the area's best beaches and small, secluded coves for swimming.
 
Dubrovnik can easily be reached in 30 minutes by bus or ferry boat. The bus (#10) runs approximately every hour (see schedule here) and is priced at 10 Kuna per person. The ferry runs slightly less frequently and costs about 100 Kuna per person. The trip may also be done by car and there is a parking lot just outside of Cavtat's historic center that charges 5 Kuna per hour.
 
There are several large hotels in Cavat and numerous private apartments for rent. Hotels include the 4-star Hotel Croatia, 4-star Iberostar Albatros, and 3-star Iberostar Epidaurus. For apartment rentals, contact Dubrovnik Apartment Source by email at contact@dubrovnikapartmentsource.com.
 
 
Tuesday, March 30, 2010  
 
Croatian Cuisine  
 
The diverse flavors of Croatian cuisine reflect the varied history of the country itself.  National dishes and cooking techniques encompass traditions from Italy, Bosnia, Austria, Hungary, and Turkey.  Zagreb and the northwest offer hearty meat dishes that you might find in Vienna.  As you travel from Zagreb to the coast you can see the food become lighter as Mediterranean influences take hold.  The cuisine of the northern coastal area of Istria is borrowed from neighboring Italy with lots of pasta dishes and the famous wild white and black truffle.  The cuisine of the Dalmatian coast in the south is also influenced by Italian cooking, but is mostly concerned with fresh fish, seafood, and fabulous olive oil.  The following is a list of dishes that you might find on menus in Croatia:  
 
Gulas - A Hungarian influenced stew with meat and vegetables, mostly found in Zagreb and northwest parts of the country.  
 
Kulen - A paprika flavored sausage served cold from the Eastern Slavonia region of Croatia.  
 
Fresh fish - A staple on menus from Split to Dubrovnik usually prepared simply: grilled whole with olive oil, garlic, and fresh herbs.  It can be quite expensive and is usually priced by the kg.  
 
Dalmatian ham - Smoked ham similar to an Italian Prosciutto or an Iberian jamon, usually served sliced very thin and sometimes with melon.  This is popular in Istria and in Dalmatia.  
 
Octopus salad - Another dish that you will find on almost every menu in Dalmatia; it is generally good and sometimes great depending on the freshness of the octopus and how it is prepared.  Usual ingredients include red onion, capers, olive oil, & vinegar.  
 
Pasticada - A Dalmatian beef dish which is stuffed with lard and roasted in wine and spices; it is generally served with gnocchi...not for those watching their calorie intake.  
 
Meat “under the iron bell” – Pork, veal, or lamb slow roasted with potatoes under an iron “bell” covered in embers for 3 or 4 hours.  This is a very traditional method of cooking and is one of Croatia’s most-prized culinary traditions.   
 
Cevapcici - A Bosnian dish of meat sausages (with no casing) or meatballs, usually served in a pita with raw onion and red pepper sauce.  The spices give this a unique flavor and it is a must try for meat-eaters.  
 
Raznjici - Shish kebab of pork, beef, lamb, or fish.  This dish can be found at many restaurants, but is best at Bosnian restaurants.  
 
Burek - A heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and often eaten on-the-go from a bakery.  
 
Seafood Bouzara - Shellfish cooked in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, herbs, white wine, and breadcrumbs.  
 
Blitva - A side dish served with most fish and seafood dishes in Dalmatia; it is basically swiss chard served boiled with potatoes, olive oil, and garlic.  
 
Black Risotto - A traditional Italian style rice dish made with squid and cuttlefish; it's black color comes from the addition of squid ink.  
 
Palacinka - Thin dessert pancakes (like crepes) filled with jam or chocolate and sometimes topped with ice cream.  These are of Hungarian origin but are found throughout Croatia today.  
 
Krempita - A cake or pie filled with custard and topped with cream; it is sweet and caloric but for those with a sweet tooth, it should not be missed.
 
 
Wednesday, March 24, 2010  
 
No Smoking in Dubrovnik Bars this Summer  
 
On April 9th a new smoking ban will come into effect in Croatia.  It applies to cafes and bars with indoor seating.  Bars greater than 50 square meters in size will be required to have a non-smoking section and to install a new ventilation system.  Bars smaller than 50 square meters can choose to be smoking or non-smoking.  Those that choose to allow smoking will need permission from the Ministry of Health and will need to install an adequate ventilation system.  Smoking will still be permitted at all bars when outside on the street or terrace.  A similar law was in force last summer, but it was repealed just 6 months later under pressure from bar owners who claimed that the prohibition was bad for business.  It is yet to be seen how well the new law will be enforced and if it will last longer than the 2009 ban.
 
 
Friday, March 19, 2010  
 
Small Plates, Big Flavors  
 
The opening of Lucin Kantun brings tapas, Croatian style, to Dubrovnik’s Old Town.  Despite its small space, the restaurant feels refreshingly airy owing to the extensive use of white in the décor: white walls, white wooden tables, and bleached wooden beams on the ceiling.  Diners get the feeling that they are dining in the owner’s home as they watch their food being prepared in the open kitchen, a beautiful addition to the décor itself.  Dishes are served tapas style, and include starters (ranging from 12 to 20 Kuna per plate) such as hummus, roasted eggplant spread, tsaziki, octopus salad, and a selection of Croatian cheeses from throughout the country.  Mains (also served tapas style, about 25 Kuna per plate) include lamb kebabs with lavender and honey, veal medallions with walnuts, shrimp with lentils, and delicate white fish wrapped in bacon. , ; Portions are small and are made to share, so expect to order about 4 or 5 plates per person.  But be sure to leave room for the homemade desserts (about 25 Kuna each); a refreshing lemon infused cheesecake and a chocolate cream cake were on offer the night we were there.  
 
Lucin Kantun is located on Od Sigurate in the Old Town, just next to the Hotel Stari Grad.
 
 
Saturday, March 13, 2010  
 
Slasticarna Gabi open in Gruz  
 
Logo for Slasticarna Gabi in Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
Slasticarna Gabi, home of the best cakes in Dubrovnik, has recently opened a small shop on the ground floor of the Tommy building in Gruz.  The shop is just behind the bus station, making it easy for patrons to stop in for a piece of cake on their way home.  Gabi’s homemade creations include cheesecake, carrot cake, apple cake, and several varieties of chocolate cake.  She also serves cookies and muffins for those in need of a quick sugar fix.  Whole cakes can be ordered for a special occasion, with her wedding and birthday cakes quickly becoming a favorite among locals in Dubrovnik.   
 
Slasticarna Gabi can be found in the Shopping Center TOMMY at Vukovarska 36.  Gabi’s cakes can also be ordered wholesale at her bakery at Od Batale 25 or by calling +385 (0)91 761 9550.  For more information, see Gabi’s website.
 
 
Monday, March 8, 2010
 
Laundry in Dubrovnik
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One of the most common questions we get from visitors to Dubrovnik is “Where can I do laundry?”  For those not staying at a private apartment or villa with a washing machine, there are two options.  There is one Laundromat just a couple of minutes walking distance from the Pile Gate (on Od Tabakarije) and another near the Hotel Bellevue (on Pera Cingrije) in Gorica.  Both offer full laundry service (wash & dry in about 24 hours), but neither have coin-operated machines.  You can see the locations of each Laundromat on the following map:
 

View Laundromats in Dubrovnik in a larger map
 
 
 
Thursday, March 4, 2010  
 
Visa Requirements Lifted Again  
 
The Croatian government will once again temporarily lift the visa requirements for some visitors to Croatia this summer.  Last year the requirements were lifted for visitors from Ukraine and Russia and it drastically increased the number of visitors from these countries.  This summer, they will add China, Jordan, Qatar, Oman, and United Arab Emirates to the list.  The temporary lift will be in effect from 1 April to 31 October 2010.  Hopefully the lifting of the visa requirements will improve tourism from these nations.
 
 
Saturday, February 27, 2010  
 
Car Rental in Dubrovnik  
 
Many visitors to Dubrovnik choose to rent a car to make daytrips or to travel up the coast to Split and beyond.  For a group of 3 or 4 people, renting a car is the most economical way to travel and it offers the flexibility to explore the country at your own pace.  However, those who wish to rent a car while in Dubrovnik should be aware that the city is infamous for its parking problems and should either secure parking at their accommodation (if possible) or be prepared to pay for parking in the local garage (Parking in Dubrovnik).  Drivers should also be aware that roads are often narrow and local drivers can be aggressive and erratic.  Defensive driving is a must.  
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One popular overnight or daytrip that can be made by rental car is to Montenegro.  The historic towns of Kotor and Budva are located just over 2 hours away from Dubrovnik on the beautiful coastal road.  When making this trip, it is important to be sure that your rental car comes, with the proper documents and insurance to cross the b, order.  Most local car companies automaticall, y include this in the rental price, but many international companies such as Avis and Hertz charge extra for Montenegro insurance, which must be purchased at the time of rental.  You may also have to pay a 10 Euro environmental tax at the Montenegro border if, the rental car you are driving has not recently entered the country and obtained the necessary vignette.  
 
Car rental rates in Croatia are generally high by international standards and vary greatly depending on the rental company and class of car.  Rentals generally begin at about 40 Euro per day for a small economy car, including taxes and insurance.  A reliable local car rental company in Dubrovnik is Euro Car Rental.  They will drop-off the car to you anywhere in Dubrovnik and pick it up again at the end of your stay.  Rates and booking information can be found on their website.
 
 
Tuesday, February 23, 2010  
 
Cooking Courses in Dubrovnik  
 
During the last year, the culinary school at the Hilton Imperial Hotel in Dubrovnik has been offering cooking classes to the public.  They are generally only one or two nights in length and they teach students how to prepare a meal from start to finish.  Each month, a different theme is selected.  This month’s theme is healthy cooking.   
 
The idea is that in today’s busy world we can still find the time to prepare delicious and healthy meals.  The Hilton’s executive chef, Gabriele Savini, will teach participants basic culinary skills and will show them how to prepare healthy meals in just 20 minutes.  After the class, participants may invite a guest to enjoy the 5-course dinner that they prepared.  
 
This month’s cooking class will take place on February 24th and 25th from 4:30 to 7:00 pm.  The price of the course is 450 Kuna per person and includes a 5-course dinner with wine.
 
 
Friday, February 19, 2010  
 
Dubrovnik Wedding Fair  
 
The third annual Dubrovnik Wedding Fair will be held on Sunday, February 28, 2010.  The event will take place at the Hilton Imperial Hotel just outside of the Old Town with hours of operation from 11 am to 6 pm.  Exhibitors at the fair will showcase the latest trends in wedding fashions, as well as hairstyles, make-up, photography, and jewelry.  This is a great opportunity for citizens of Dubrovnik and for those planning a destination wedding to see the best that the Adriatic city has to offer brides-to-be.
 
 
Saturday, February 13, 20, 10  
 
Town of Trogir  
 
Town of Trogir, near Split, Croatia
 
For a quiet alternative to the busy city center of Split, look 28km north to the historic town of Trogir.  With a population of just 1600, this walled town is a charming and relaxing place to spend a few days.  Its waterfront promenade and enclosed maze of medieval streets has gained the distinction of being named a Unesco World Heritage site.  The town also acts as a bridge to the Island of Ciovo, known for its sunny beaches.  For the best beaches, however, board the local ferry for the islands of Drvenik Mali or Drvenik Veli nearby.  
 
Visitors to Trogir can arrive by car, bus, or ferry from Split.  And conveniently, the Split airport is just a few kilometers away.
 
 
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
 
Parking Near Dubrovnik's Old Town
 
One of the many features that make Dubrovnik’s Old Town so attractive is its pedestrian-only streets. However, this ban on vehicular traffic makes arriving by car and finding parking very difficult. After a slew of recent changes in parking laws, the local government has finally returned to the original rules that have served us well for the past few years.
With the return to the old rules, visitors can now park for as long as they like using the “pay & display” system or for free on some parts of Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila. These are the two main streets in the Ploce neighborhood, just outside of the Old Town. In addition, visitors may park in two “pay & display” parking lots located just behind the Old Town, near the Buza Gate. Under this “pay & display” system, drivers may either buy a ticket from a machine and display it in their car windows or send an SMS (from a local Croatian mobile phone) with their registration number (license plate number) to 8202. They may then send additional SMS messages to add more time, one hour per message. Parking under this “pay & display” system costs 5 Kuna per hour*.
 
For those who cannot find a spot on the street or who plan to park for an extended period of time, the city has recently completed construction of a new underground parking garage l, ocated jus, t 10–15-minutes’ walking distance to the Old Town. Here is a map that shows the location of the new garage:
There is a free shuttle bus to the Old Town that leaves on every hour and half hour. It will also take passengers back to the garage on its return trip. The following is a price list for parking:
 
1st 3 hours: 6 Kuna per hour*
After 1st 3 hours: 3 Kuna per hour*
24 hour ticket**: 60 Kuna*
 
*These rates are valid from September to June. Rates may increase to 10 Kuna per hour during July & August.
 
**Please note that drivers must notify the parking attendant that they wish to buy a 24-h, our pass immediately after parking. If they do not, they will be charged the normal hourly rate, which will equal 81 Kuna for 24 hours. Once a 24-hour pass is purchased, drivers may enter and exit the garage as many times as they like within a 24-hour period.
 
 
Friday, January 29, 2010  
 
The Day of Saint Blaise  
 
The 3rd of February will mark what is said to be the most important day of the Dubrovnik Calendar: the day of Saint Blaise.  The festivities will kick-off on Tuesday, February 2nd with the Commemoration of the Defenders of Dubrovnik at the Boninovo Cemetery.  The calendar of events then continues throughout the day with various ceremonies, parades, and exhibit, ions, culminating in the Candlemas ceremony where white doves will be released at Fort Revelin at 20:00.  The celebration will start early on Wednesday, February 3rd with the Patriotic Hymn played by the Dubrovnik Brass Band at 7 am.  Other events that day will include a mass at the Cathedral in Old Town, a friendly soccer match, and a raffle.  If you’re in town during this period, be sure to make some time to join the citizens of Dubrovnik in honoring and celebrating their patron saint.
 
 
Sunday, January 24, 2010
 
Beaches in Dubrovnik
 
Banje Beach, Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
Many visitors come to Dubrovnik in search of the perfect beach holiday and with crystal clear waters and nearly perfect weather from May to October, most will have no problem finding it. However, some first-time visitors are surprised to find that Dubrovnik does not offer the kind of white, sandy beaches that are found at many other holiday destinations. Beaches in Dubrovnik and along the Dalmatian coast are generally comprised of small pebbles and rocks whose surfaces have been rounded by the tides. Often, what many locals call “beaches” are merely concrete slabs or large rocks from which swimmers can enter the sea. For those that require at least a pebble beach with a gradual slope to the sea, the following is a list of recommended local Dubrovnik beaches:  
 
Banje Beach: The most popular beach in Dubrovnik and with good reason: the proximity and views to the Old Town are unparalleled. This is about as close as it comes to a sandy beach in Dubrovnik (pebbles are small) and the protection offered by Lokrum Island and the Old Town make, it an ideal swimming beach for children. The East West Club offers lounge chair & umbrella rentals and serves cocktails & snacks at the restaurant/bar. The walk down to the beach requires several flights of stairs, but its location just next to the Old Town in the neighborhood of Ploce make it one of the most convenient beaches in Dubrovnik.  
 
Lapad Beach: Another popular beach in a great location, Lapad beach sits at the end of a pedestrian-only street surrounded by restaurants, cafe bars, and ice cream shops. It gets crowded with vacationing families in the summer months, but those who value their privacy can easily find lots of secluded swimming spots just a few meters away if they walk a little further out onto the Lapad peninsula.  
 
Sveti Jakov: Popular with locals, this beach is difficult to reach, but is well worth the several flights of steep stairs required. The pebble beach offers fantastic swimming conditions and great views of the Old Town, which is just 30 minutes away by foot. To reach Sveti Jakov, simply exit the Old Town at the Ploce Gate and walk toward the Excelsior Hotel with Banje Beach on your right. After passing the Grand Villa Argentina, bear to the right down the small side street and continue on to the end. There will be a small church (the church of Sveti Jakov) with the entrance to the beach just behind.  
 
Lokrum Island: A small island easily visible from the Old Town and reachable by ferry from the Old Port. There are a couple of beaches on the island and lots of secluded places for swimming (including one nude beach at the far end). Lokrum makes an easy half-day trip from Dubrovnik and is a great way to escape the summer crowds of Banje beach.  
 
Copacabana Beach: This is Dubrovnik’s most family-friendly beach and one of its most popular. It is located on the Lapad peninsula close to many hotels and shops. The beach club offers many amenities including lounge chairs & umbrella rentals; water sports such as waterpolo, water-skiing, parasailing, scuba diving, and windsurfing; sea slides for children; ice creams stands; and a beach bar. Of course, all these extras attract big crowds in the summer months.  
 
Uvala Lapad: This stretch of beach goes from the center of Lapad to the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel. It is a mix of large rocks, concrete slabs, and small sections of pebble beach. Parking is very difficult to find, but those who come by foot or public bus will be rewarded with an often nearly-empty beach and beautiful, tranquil surroundings.
 
 
Wednesday, January 20, 2010  
 
A Three Island Tour 
 
One of the most popular day trips from Dubrovnik is the Elafiti Islands.  It is possible to reach them on your own by local ferry boat, but it is difficult to see more than one per day that way.  A great way to see all three in one day is the Three Island Tour.  The tour leaves from various locations including Gruz Port, Old Town, Lapad, Zupa, Plat, and Cavtat.  Aboard an old wooden boat, you will visit the islands of Kolocep; known for its bountiful fruit orchids; Lopud, known for its beautiful sandy beach; and Sipan, famous for its aristocratic history.  Tours include a lunch of fish and white wine and entertainment by local musicians.  Prices vary by tour operator, but are generally between 40 and 50 Euros per person.  It is said that Dubrovnik is best seen from the sea, and this is a great way to explore the area in a short time, .  Be sure to bring a bathing suit as there are lots of opportunities for swimming along the way.  
 
Tours can generally be booked a day in advance by walking down to the port from which you plan to depart.  
 
 
Friday, January 15, 2010
 
A Bit of Serbia Close to Dubrovnik
 
A short drive inland from Dubrovnik will take you across the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina and to the town of Trebinje.  This sleepy town lies on the Trebisnjica River in the southern-most part of the Republika Srpska.  Republika Srpska, meaning Serb Republic, is a political entity and territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina mostly inhabited by ethnic Serbs.  Despite its close proximity to Dubrovnik (about 45 minutes by car), locals use the Serbian Cyrillic alphabet, which can be seen on most road and business signs.  A day trip to Trebinje is a good opportunity to experience Serbian culture and to view the rocky landscapes just inland from the coast.   
 
Trebinje also offers cheaper dining than you will find in Dubrovnik and a fresh fruit and vegetable market with lower prices as well.  However, be aware that carrying produce across the border into Croatia is illegal and it may be confiscated by border guards.  The town also has a small shopping center, a nice park, and a leafy central square with a selection of outdoor cafes, perfect for enjoying a coffee and soaking up the local culture.  
 
To reach Trebinje by car, simply follow the main road from Dubrovnik toward the airport and turn off to the left just before you reach the entrance to the Getro/Lidl/Spiona Land shopping area (if you descend down into the shopping area then you have gone too far).  Follow this road to the border crossing and then follow signs to Trebinje.
 
 
Monday, January 11, 2010
 
Supermarkets in Dubrovnik
 
Shopping for food in Dubrovnik can be a time consuming task as it often requires several stops.  There are a few large supermarkets where you can buy most everything, but finding good, fresh produce can be a bit of a challenge.  The following is a list of the supermarkets and produce shops where you can find all that Dubrovnik has to offer:
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Konzum: This is the largest supermarket in Dubrovnik and has a slightly better selection of products than the other supermarkets in town, but it is not recommended for fresh produce (which is generally not very fresh).  It is located just beside the main bus station and port in Gruz.  There are also a couple of smaller Konzum stores inside and just outside of the Old Town.  
 
Tommy: Another medium-sized supermarket with a good selection of products, but with very poor produce.  But, what it lacks in produce it makes up for with a great bakery just out front: a good place to buy bureks, bread, and cakes sold whole or by the slice.  It is located in the center of Dubrovnik’s business district in Gruz and can easily be reached by public bus from the Old Town.  
 
Pemo: A smaller supermarket near Tommy, but with a better selection of produce and a larger butcher.  It is located in a small shopping center with a couple of home and electronic stores, upstairs.  There is also a smaller Pemo in the village of Zaton.  
 
Bio I Bio: A specialty shop selling mostly organic (“bio”) and healthy food options.  It caters to those with dietary restrictions and those who prefer natural, unprocessed foods.  It’s also a great place for finding international products from Asia and the Middle East.  It is located on the top level of the Mercante shopping center in Gruz, on the same street as Pemo and Tommy.  
 
Kerum: A medium-sized supermarket in a shopping center in Lapad.  It has a good selection of products and a decent fresh fish section, but the produce isn’t great.  Parking is really difficult to find here, but it’s convenient for those staying nearby in Lapad.  There is also a smaller branch in Ploce near the Old Town.  
 
Gruz Market: A large outdoor produce, fish, and flower market located on the Gruz Harbor.  This is where you can usually find the best produce and freshest fish, but it is best to arrive early to get a good selection (especially for fish).  TIP: When you enter the market, continue past the large tables in front and look for the older women in the back with a smaller selection.  The produce is more likely to be locally grown and, though it may not look perfect, will probably taste better.  
 
Batala Market: This place may have a name, but everyone just refers to it by the name of the street it is on: Batala.  It’s a small market with a great selection of fruit and vegetables.  Most of the produce is local and seasonal, but it is possible to find imports such as pineapples and mangos as well.  
 
Getro/Lidle: I lump these two stores together because they are both international retailers with stores just across from each other in Zupa Dubrovacka.  Both have a selection of international products and fresh produce, as well as random items for the home and clothing.  Getro is much larger and has a more reliable stock of items, while Lidl tends to carry whatever happens to be on offer that month with seasonal products being their focus.  Lidle often has great produce imported from Italy.  Both stores can be seen from the main road traveling from Dubrovnik towards the airport.  
 
Mercator: A Slovenian supermarket located in the village of Srebreno in Zupa Dubrovacka.  It has an average selection of products with a few extra items imported from Europe that cannot be found elsewhere.  The produce is generally not very good, but the fully-cooked, ready-to-eat, roasted chickens make a great fast meal.
 
 
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
 
Ice Rink Opens in Dubrovnik
 
Residents of Dubrovnik rang in the New Year with the opening of a new ice rink on January 1st.  The rink is located near the parking garage in Ilina Glavica, just 10 – 15 minutes walking distance from the Old Town.  It will be open daily from 10 AM until 10 PM through the middle of February.  An hour on the ice with skate rental costs 20 Kuna.  For those that are inexperienced, skating lessons are available for 200 Kuna.  A skating rink is a much needed addition to the city, which is otherwise lacking in winter time activities.
 
 
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
 
Destination Weddings in Dubrovnik
 
Wedding at Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
Dubrovnik is fast becoming a popular location for destination weddings. Its reliable weather, unique culture, and charming architecture make it the perfect backdrop for your special day. Unfortunately, the increased popularity of weddings in Dubrovnik has also brought about increased prices. That said, a wedding can still be hosted in Dubrovnik at only a fraction of the cost of a typical American or Western European wedding.
 
The first step in planning a wedding in Dubrovnik is to hire a wedding planner. Unless you live in Croatia and speak the language, it will not be possible to file all the necessary paperwork to make the marriage legal. There are some very specific requirements and meeting deadlines is critical. A wedding planner will also have the connections needed to plan your ceremony & reception, hire your photographer, order your flowers, and arrange transportation if necessary. There are several wedding planners in Dubrovnik; I would recommend contacting one of the following:
 
 
Weddings in Dubrovnik - Steve & Sanela Enstone: +385 (0)20 417 589, sanela-steve@weddingsindubrovnik.com
 
Whether you plan to have a religious ceremony or a civil wedding, there are lots of great venues for nuptials in Dubrovnik. Saint Blaise church on the Stradun is a favorite among locals and Sponza Palace just across the street (pictured above) is a beautiful setting for civil ceremonies. Receptions can be held at most hotels in Dubrovnik; I particularly like the Palm Terrace at the Hotel Excelsior and the Dubrovnik Palace in Lapad. Finally, don't forget about your guests. It can be difficult to plan a trip to Dubrovnik and couples should make it as easy as possible for people to attend their wedding. This includes researching flight routes, providing a list of accommodations (or asking an agency such as Dubrovnik Apartment Source to work directly with your guests), and planning group activities in the days leading up to and after the wedding. If you give your guests a great holiday in addition to a great wedding day, they will thank you for it.
 
 
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
 
Finding Accommodation in Dubrovnik Just Got Easier
 
We at Dubrovnik Apartment Source are proud to announce the redesign of our website, www.DubrovnikApartmentSource.com. With a more user-friendly layout, apartment information preview boxes, and clearer instructions, our new website makes finding and booking holiday accommodation in Croatia easier than ever! We continue to offer a wide selection of Dubrovnik’s finest holiday apartments and villas, and are always on hand to offer the best customer service in the industry. So please, spread the word to any family, friends, or colleagues who are planning a trip to Croatia!
 
 
Thursday, December 10, 2009  
 
Fight the Winter Blues at D’Vino Wine Bar  
 
Winters in Dubrovnik can be boring to say the least.  In a town that is made for sunshine, there is very little to do when it’s cool and rainy.  D’Vino Wine Bar is helping to fix that this winter.  They will be hosting lots of fun events every week to keep locals and visitors from getting bored.  Activities will include board games (such as Pictionary & Uno), card games (such as Gin Rummy & Texas Hold’Em), and North American sports on the TV (live NHL hockey and NFL football every Sunday throughout the season).  All this will be accompanied by their usual extraordinary selection of wines and new hot beverages: coffee, tea, and mulled wine - made fresh daily with fruit and an assortment of spices.  If in town on a winter day, be sure to stop by to enjoy the cheer.  
 
D’Vino Wine bar is located at Palmoticeva 4a and further information may be obtained on their website.
 
 
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
 
Cruise Ships in Dubrovnik  
 
Most residents of Dubrovnik agree that one of the city’s biggest problems is the number of cruise ships docking in its port.  Over a million passengers per year visit the small Adriatic city, often leading to overcrowding and congestion.  Cruise ship passengers generally descend on the Old Town in the thousands, making the Stradun and city walls impassable.  In fact, officials have been forced to temporarily close down the Old Town entrances several times in recent years due to overcrowding.  Local business owners also consider the crowding to be a problem as cruise ship passengers spend very little money in the city.  Most passengers are only in town for a few hours and buy nothing more than an ice cream or a T-shirt.  Many do not wish to exchange Euros or Dollars for Kuna for such a short period, so they buy nothing.   
 
The concern among local business owners is that the thousands of cruise ship passengers walking the city streets will crowd out independent travelers who are more likely to patronize local restaurants, café bars, and shops.  If Dubrovnik gains a reputation for overcrowding, many of these independent travelers may stay away completely.  To avoid this, it is rumored that the city may limit the number of cruise ship passengers to 7500 per day.  This would certainly go a long way to improve conditions on the worst days, but would still leave the Old Town’s narrow streets full on most summer days.  
 
For those that wish to avoid the crowds, the Dubrovnik Port Authority website  has a schedule of cruise ship traffic and a color-coded chart showing how many passengers will be in the city on any given day.    
 
 
 
Sunday, November 15, 2009
 
Golf Course Coming to Dubrovnik
 
After years of discussion and rumor, the plan to build a golf course atop Dubrovnik’s Srdj hill is finally moving forward.  Details of the project, which is worth 6.5 Billion Kunas (890 Million Euros), were presented to the Dubrovnik city and county governments by Australian professional golfer Greg Norman (Greg Norman to Design Dubrovnik Golf Course – Croatian Times).  Norman is a well-known designer of premier golf courses around the world and is also one of the investors in the Dubrovnik golf course project.  There are also rumors of another golf course project in the nearby Konavle region, but the Srdj hill project seems to be moving ahead at a quicker pace.  The opening of a golf course in Dubrovnik should help to attract many new visitors to the city and should create many new jobs in the tourism industry.
 
 
Monday,  November 2, 2009  
 
Long-term apartment rentals in Dubrovnik
 
  
 
One of the most common inquiries we get is for long-term apartment rentals in Dubrovnik.  Each year there are lots of new people coming to Dubrovnik with the intention of working, studying, or just living a slower life.  Most of these people need an apartment to rent for 6 months to a year so they can settle in and concentrate on attending classes or making a living.  Many of these people do not stay longer than 6 months or a year, but some stay on and become permanent fixtures in Dubrovnik.
 
Finding a long-term apartment rental in Dubrovnik is not an easy task.  Most apartment owners rent to tourists during the summer months and some rent to students during the winter months.  In order to consider renting an apartment to one tenant for the entire year, an owner would have to earn at least what he or she could expect to earn from short-term rentals during the summer months.  This means monthly rental rates are quite high, often equal to rents in major Western European cities.  Unfortunately, these rents can go even higher once the landlord learns that the potential tenant is a foreigner. 
 
Good advice for finding a long-term rental is to look around and get as many quotes as possible before choosing an apartment.  Prices vary greatly depending on size, location, and apartment owner.  Monthly rents will be considerably less expensive in Lapad than in or around the Old Town and will be even cheaper outside of Dubrovnik (in Zaton, Cavtat, or Zupa Dubrovacka).  Most apartment owners will want you to pay your own utilities, especially if staying through the winter months.  In general, you can expect to pay between 550 EUR per month plus utilities for a small apartment outside of Dubrovnik up to 2000 EUR per month for a large apartment in or around the Old Town.
 
For more information on long-term apartment rentals and for assistance in finding one, please contact us by email at contact@dubrovnikapartmentsource.com.
 
 
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
 
Bake Sale in Dubrovnik 
 
The International Bake Sale will take place on Saturday, 31 October 2009 at Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik’s Old Town. It is sponsored and run by The Dubrovnik Foreign Circle, an organization of foreigners living (either full-time or part-time) in Dubrovnik. The bake sale will be open from 10 am until 2 pm and will sell baked goods made and donated by members of the Foreign Circle. 100% of the proceeds of the sale will go to the International Children’s Library Project, a charity established to purchase books and materials for local children. If you’re in town on Saturday and need to satisfy your sweet tooth, please stop by the bake sale and help raise money for a good cause.
 
 
Friday, October 23, 2009
 
Dubrovnik Travel Info on Twitter
 
Twitter Bird
 
Dubrovnik Apartment Source will now be tweeting daily under the name TravelDubrovnik. Tweets will include general information on Dubrovnik, current happenings around town, and special offers on the Dubrovnik Apartment Source website. Twitter is a great way to get bits of useful information without spending a lot of time searching or reading articles. We encourage you to follow our tweets by visiting our page at www.Twitter.com/TravelDubrovnik and logging into your Twitter account or signing up for a new one.
 
 
Saturday, October 17, 2009
 
Freedom of Expression Threatened in Croatia 
 
A recent news story has made many Croatians question where their government stands on freedom of expression (Croatian Times, 8 October 2009). Vukovar resident Damir Fintic has been sentenced to 20 days in prison for comments someone else wrote on his blog in 2005. The comments were critical of the former Vukovar Mayor Vladimir Stengl and his wife. Fintic will be the first Croatian, and likely the first European, to be sent to prison for comments made on a blog. The Croatian Journalists Association (HND) strongly opposes the prison sentence and is concerned that it will hurt Croatia’s reputation as a country that respects freedom of expression. The sentence is particularly worrisome as Croatia moves forward with its European Union accession talks. At a minimum, all EU nations must respect basic freedoms such as freedom of the press and freedom of expression. While the court’s decision is not necessarily indicative of Croatia’s stance on freedom of expression as a country, it is significant enough to keep this blogger from being too critical of the local government.
 
 
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
 
The Three Winds
 
Life in Dubrovnik is very much affected by the three winds that blow through the city: Bura, Jugo, and Maestral. Each of these winds has its own unique characteristics and its own influence on local life:
 
1.) Bura: This is an unpredictable wind that blows from the mainland towards the sea. It often blows in strong gushes and brings clear, cold air from continental Europe. Dubrovnik locals generally like the Bura as it cleans the air and improves visibility. It can, however, be dangerous for small craft on the sea with powerful wind gusts and a low mist that makes breathing difficult. A strong Bura often results in the closing of the Dubrovnik airport as the winds are too unpredictable to risk taking off and landing.
 
2.) Jugo: This is a moderate wind that blows from the sea towards the coast. It is generally accompanied by rain and a pressure that affects the health of anyone susceptible to it. Common symptoms include heart palpitations, dizziness, and fatigue. It is said that in the days of the Dubrovnik Republic the government would refrain from making important decisions during the Jugo as the wind often made people irrational. Since the wind blows off of Africa’s Sahara desert, it often brings with it a dry, reddish dust that settles on anything left out in the rain.
 
3.) Maestral: This is a calm summer wind that blows from the sea towards the coast. It generally brings beautiful and stable weather, with only a light breeze to provide respite from the afternoon heat. The Maestral is a pleasant wind and is great for sunbathing, swimming, boating, and other water sports.
 
 
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
 
Day Trip to the Island of Korcula
 
Island of Korcula, Croatia
 
Korcula is one of the most beautiful islands on Croatia’s Adriatic coast. It has lots to offer holiday makers including a historic walled town, great beaches, and locally produced food and wine. In fact, Posip is one of the most recognized wines in Croatia and the best is produced in the small town of Cara on the island of Korcula. While visitors can easily spend 4 or 5 days on the island, those with less time can see it on a daytrip from Dubrovnik.
 
For those without a car, the best way to visit Korcula from Dubrovnik is by catamaran ferry, operating only during July and August. On Mondays and Saturdays the ferry leaves Dubrovnik at 9:15 and arrives in Korcula at 11:50. The return ferry leaves Korcula at 16:00 and arrives in Dubrovnik at 18:35. On Tuesdays and Thursdays the ferry leaves Dubrovnik at 8:00 and arrives in Korcula at 10:45. The return ferry leaves Korcula at 16:00 and arrives in Dubrovnik at 18:35. This ferry schedule can be viewed on the Korcula Info website.
 
Those with a car can visit Korcula any day of the week by driving to the town of Orebic on the Peljesac Peninsula and taking a short car ferry to Korcula. The ferry runs continuously throughout the day during the whole year. It is also possible to make this daytrip with a private car and driver. Private tours with an English-speaking driver are priced as follows:
 
1-3 people: 210 EUR
4-8 people: 230 EUR
9-18 people: 460 EUR
 
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
 
Radisson Resort & Spa, Orasac (Dubrovnik)
 
Just 20 minutes north along the coast from the Old Town is Dubrovnik’s newest luxury hotel & spa: Radisson Blu. It sits directly on the shore looking out to the Elafiti Islands and the Adriatic Sea beyond. The hotel offers 201 guest rooms and 207 fully-furnished apartments, from which guests can choose a 1-, 2-, or 3-bedroom layout. 24 of the guest rooms are suites that offer amenities such as free broadband Internet connection, premium movies, private balcony with sea views, and an in-room Nespresso coffee machine. All rooms and apartments are tastefully decorated in a contemporary style with neutral tones and occasional splashes of color.
 
Radisson Blu Hotel, Orasac, Croatia  Radisson Blu Hotel, Orasac, Croatia
 
The property boasts over a dozen restaurants and bars as well as shops where guests can buy food to prepare in their apartments. The restaurants mostly have a strong Mediterranean influence, but some offer a variety of world cuisine with dishes from Morocco, Thailand, and India. At night, there are several bars to choose from and a club/lounge with DJs and a dance floor. During the day, guests can enjoy one of the hotel’s many pools, a large pebble beach with direct access to the sea, a marina offering water sports, a beautiful new spa, and an indoor & outdoor sport center. In addition, there is an 1100 square meter convention center that can accommodate up to 900 guests.
 
For more information on the new hotel and resort, visit the Radisson Blu Website.
 
 
Saturday, September 12, 2009
 
Croatia: A Study In What Not To Do During A Recession
 
During the past year, much of the world has been suffering through the worst recession since the Great Depression 70 years ago. In response, governments around the globe have been injecting money into their economies through bank bailouts, lower interest rates, and tax incentive programs. Meanwhile, in Croatia, the government has been steadily raising interest rates, raising taxes, and adding more controls on small business owners, making it difficult to turn a profit.
 
In August 2009, the Croatian government adopted a new “Crisis Tax” on pensions and income, making Croatian income tax the highest in the world (Croatian Times Article, 25.08.09). They have also recently increased VAT from an already high 22% to 23%, making daily life more expensive for its citizens.
 
In addition, the Croatian government has been denying more and more visas for foreign business owners and wealthy retirees, often sending letters advising them that they have only a few days to abandon their homes and businesses and leave the country. These are the very people that employ local Croatian employees and pump money into the local economy through their businesses and by spending money at local restaurants, shops, and bars. All business owners, local and foreign, have recently been feeling the squeeze from the government, often receiving large fines or being shut down for days over minor offenses such as an unaccounted-for egg or cup of olive oil in their inventory, or failing to produce a license for a copy of Windows 98 on their business computer.
 
The Croatian government, like all governments around the world, is feeling the effects of the economic downturn. The answer, however, is not to raise taxes and increase penalties for business owners, effectively making Croatian citizens foot the bill for the government’s bad economic policy decisions. The answer is to open up the market to attract more foreign investment by lowering income tax rates and cutting back on regulation. The government must loosen its stranglehold on local businesses by allowing them to operate under easier accounting requirements and without the constant fear of being fined or shut down for minor offenses. By allowing local and foreign businesses to prosper in Croatia, the government will be creating jobs as well as increasing tax revenues and increasing the country’s standard of living. Unfortunately, the Croatian government is currently not paying attention to how to the rest of the world is dealing with the economic crisis and is continuing to move in the wrong direction.
 
 
Sunday, September 6, 2009
 
Day Trip to Montenegro
 
 
Just 40 minutes south of Dubrovnik is the border to one of Europe’s newest countries: Montenegro. Since its independence from Serbia in 2006, Montenegro has become one of the most visited nations in the Balkans. Owing to its close proximity, it’s a popular day-trip from Dubrovnik. The drive from Dubrovnik to the historic city of Kotor takes approximately 2 hours, passing through the magnificent bay of Kotor. Those who make an early start can also continue on to the walled city of Budva and the beautiful town of Sveti Stefan, before turning back to start the journey home.
 
Rental cars can generally be taken into Montenegro, but this should be cleared with your rental company before attempting to cross the border. If the car has not crossed the border recently, customs agents will charge you a 10 EUR Eco-Tax and put a sticker on the car that is valid for 1 year. The main border crossing on the coastal road is heavily trafficked and wait times can be as long as 2 hours during the busy summer season. There is a smaller border crossing with minimal or no wait times on the road from Molunat to Montenegro; if you can find it, it’s worth leaving the main road to avoid the traffic. Just follow the signs for Molunat and the Prevlaka National Park, and then take a left when you reach the sea.
 
A more relaxing way to see Montenegro is by private tour. Private tours with an English-speaking driver are priced as follows:
 
1-3 people: 210 EUR
4-8 people: 230 EUR
9-18 people: 460 EUR
 
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
 
Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival
 
Julian Rachlin Festival, Dubrovnik, Croatia
 
The ninth annual Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival is underway in Dubrovnik. The festival began on Monday, 31 August with a performance at the Revelin Fortress Terrace and continues until Saturday, 12 September. Concerts will once again be held in the beautiful 17th century Rector’s Palace in Dubrovnik’s Old Town. The festival attracts musicians from all around the world, as well as classical music enthusiasts who return to Dubrovnik every year to enjoy the event.
 
For more information and to purchase tickets, please visit the festival website.
 
 
Saturday, August 29, 2009
 
Day Trip to Medjugorje
 
Medjugorje Church, BiH
 
Just 2 hours north of Dubrovnik lies one of Europe’s most important religious sites: the town of Medjugorje. Over 1 million people per year make the pilgrimage to see the hillside where the Virgin Mary allegedly appeared to 6 children in 1981. Catholics from all over the world return to the small town in Bosnia and Herzegovina every year, some for months at a time. Many visitors to Dubrovnik choose to visit Medjugorje in a day trip, some as a spiritual journey and some out of curiosity.
 
The best way to visit Medjugorje is by private tour. Private tours with an English-speaking driver are priced as follows:
 
1-3 people: 210 EUR
4-8 people: 230 EUR
9-18 people: 460 EUR
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Sunday, August 23, 2009
 
Travel from Dubrovnik to Zagreb
 
Many travelers to Croatia arrive in Zagreb and then travel to Dubrovnik or begin their trip in Dubrovnik and travel to Zagreb for their departure. There are three ways to make the journey between these two cities: Bus, airplane, and car rental. The following is a brief overview of the travel options:
 
1.) Bus: There are daily buses that operate between Dubrovnik and Zagreb in both directions. In Dubrovnik, buses arrive and leave from the main bus station in Gruz 9 times per day. They do the same from Zagreb’s main bus station in the city center. The trip takes approximately 8 hours. A schedule may be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik.
 
2.) Airplane: There are daily flights between Zagreb and Dubrovnik on Croatia Airlines. The flight takes approximately 55 minutes and if booked in advance, often costs about the same as the bus. This is the most popular form of transportation between the two cities. Schedules and fares may be viewed on the Croatia Airlines Website.
 
3.) Rental Car: If you have the time, driving can be the most enjoyable way to travel between Dubrovnik and Zagreb. Leaving Dubrovnik, the first couple hours of the journey takes travelers along the beautiful coastal road, offering stunning views of the Adriatic Sea. Drivers with a day or two to spare may want to continue on the coastal road all the way to Split, making stops in Trsteno, Ston, Gradac, and Makarska along the way. Drivers looking to reach Zagreb in one day should enter the highway shortly after the city of Ploce. The newly completed highway is one of the best in Europe and the trip between Dubrovnik and Zagreb now only takes 7 to 8 hours. There are many local car rental agencies in Dubrovnik and Zagreb, but if you plan to rent a car in one city and return it in the other, it is recommended that you contact a large international rental company that has offices in both locations.
 
 
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
 
Le Petit Festival du Theatre
 
It’s almost that time again: international musicians, performers, and artists will soon descend on the small Adriatic city of Dubrovnik for Le Petit Festival du Theatre. The festival kicks off on 27 August at the Marin Drzic theatre in Dubrovnik’s Old Town with an exhibition of the young Croatian artist, Nora Mojas and an evening of tango and jazz with the Argentinean musician Silvana Deluigi. The festival lasts for one week, and includes concerts, art exhibits, theatre, dance, and film, all of which are presented in beautiful venues such as the Marin Drzic theatre, GradsKavana cafe, and Veliki Zali beach in Brsecine. The highlight of the week is sure to be Le Bal Masque, a walking exhibition of masks designed by various European artists, and worn by members of the festival, in a parade through the streets of the Old Town. The exhibition ends at East West Beach Club for an after party with a midnight concert by the young Croatian jazz singer Ines Trickovic.
 
A program of events and ticket information may be viewed on the festival website.
 
 
Tuesday, August 11, 2009,
 
Day Trip to Mostar
 
Mostar Bridge, BiH
 
One of the best day trips that can be made from Dubrovnik is to the city of Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The small city straddles the Neretva River with its famous bridge, Stari Most, linking the two sides of the city. On one side lies the ethnically Croat Catholic neighborhood and the other side houses the cobbled Ottoman Quarter, home to the city’s Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims). This Ottoman Quarter is home to 16th century mosques, Turkish style houses, artist studios, and cafes.
 
Mostar is located about 2 hours from Dubrovnik by car. Many of the larger tour companies in Dubrovnik offer bus trips to Mostar, but it is best visited on a private tour. Prices for private day tours are as follows:
 
1-3 people: 210 EUR
4-8 peo, ple: 230 EUR
9-18 people: 460 EUR
 
According to local law, if visitors to Mostar would like a guided walking tour, it must be provided by a local Mostar resident. A local guide may be hired for an additional 50 EUR.
 
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Friday, August 7, 2009
  
Travel from Italy to Croatia
 
Many travelers from North America use Italy as their gateway to Europe and then continue on to Croatia. There are 3 ways to get to Croatia from Italy: Airplane, Ferry, and Bus. The following is a brief overview of each mode of transportation:
 
Airplane: Croatia Airlines flies direct from Rome to Zagreb daily, to Split 5 days per week, and to Dubrovnik twice per week. This schedule is in effect until 24 October and service is reduced in the winter months, with most flights going through Zagreb. Schedules and online booking are available at the Croatia Airlines website.
 
Ferry: There are 3 ports in Italy from which to depart to Croatia by ferry: Bari, Ancona, and Venice. Jadrolinija operates crossings from Bari to Dubrovnik and from Ancona to Split and Zadar. These routes are overnight and sleeping cabins or deck tickets may be booked in advance at www.jadrolinija.hr. Venezia Lines operates crossings from Venice to Pula and Rovinj. These routes take approximately 3 to 3 ½ hours and tickets may be purchased online at the Venezia Lines website.
 
Bus: Traveling by bus is slow, but is often the most economical choice and sometimes the only choice. There is a daily bus from Venice to Pula operated by Eurolines from April to October; schedules and fares may be found at www.eurolines.it. There is also a daily bus from Trieste to Rijeka, Split, and Dubrovnik operated by SAF. The trip takes about 2 hours to Rijeka, 10.5 hours to Split, and 15 hours to Dubrovnik. Schedules may be viewed on the SAF website.
 
 
Friday, July 31, 2009
 
Rental Cars in Dubrovnik
 
Many visitors to Dubrovnik choose to rent a car to make daytrips or to travel up the coast to Split and beyond. For a group of 3 or 4 people, renting a car is the most economical way to travel and it offers the flexibility to explore the country at your own pace. However, those who wish to rent a car while in Dubrovnik should be aware that the city is infamous for its parking problems and should either secure parking at their accommodation (if possible) or be prepared to pay for parking in the local garage (Dubrovnik Parking Information). Drivers should also be aware that roads are often narrow and local drivers can be aggressive and erratic. Defensive driving is a must.
 
One popular overnight or daytrip that can be made by rental car is to Montenegro. The historic towns of Kotor and Budva are located just over 2 hours away from Dubrovnik on the beautiful coastal road. When making this trip, it is important to be sure that your rental car comes with the proper documents and insurance to cross the border. Most local car companies automatically include this in the rental price, but many international companies such as Avis and Hertz charge extra for Montenegro insurance, which must be purchased at the time of rental. You may also have to pay a 10 Euro environmental tax at the Montenegro border if the rental car you are driving has not recently entered the country and obtained the necessary vignette.
 
Car rental rates in Croatia are generally high by international standards and vary greatly depending on the rental company and, class of car. Rentals generally begin at about 40 Euro per day for a small economy car, including taxes and insurance. A reliable local car rental company in Dubrovnik is Euro Car Rental. They will drop-off the car to you anywhere in Dubrovnik and pick it up again at the end of your stay. For rates and booking information, please contact us by email at contact@DubrovnikApartmentSource.com.
 
 
Saturday, July 25, 2009
 
Dubrovnik Local Bus Routes
 
The local Libertas bus system is a reliable and cost-effective way to get around the small city of Dubrovnik. Most trips cost only 10 Kuna and exact change is required. Popular city routes include the #1A, 1B, & 1C which run from Old Town’s Pile Gate to Mokosica with a stop at the main bus station in Gruz, the #4 which runs from the Pile Gate to the Hotel Palace in Lapad, and the #6 which runs from the Pile Gate to Lapad Babin Kuk. There are also buses that travel routes outside of the city of Dubrovnik, such as the #10 to Mlini, Plat, & Cavtat, #11 to Molunat, #12 to Slano, #15 to Ston, and the #21 to Orebic, where travelers may then catch a ferry to Korcula. Most routes operate 7 days per week from early in the morning until about midnight, but service may vary depending on the day of the week. Detailed schedule information may be found on the following websites:
 
 
 
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
 
Cavtat
 
Village of Cavtat, Croatia
 
The small village of Cavtat is located on the Adriatic Sea, just 18 kilometers south of Dubrovnik. Its proximity to the historic walled city makes it a great base for exploring Dubrovnik and its surroundings. It also provides a nice escape from the often-crowded Old Town of Dubrovnik during the summer months.
 
Cavtat's main attraction is its beautiful harbor and waterfront area. Unlike in Dubrovnik, visiting yachts can moor directly to the waterfront promenade and visit the many restaurants and café bars just across the street. Likewise, diners relaxing at the restaurants and cafes can watch the yachts entering and exiting the harbor. Cavtat also offers some of the area's best beaches and small, secluded coves for swimming.
 
Dubrovnik can easily be reached in 30 minutes by bus or ferry boat. The bus (#10) runs approximately every hour (see schedule here) and is priced at 10 Kuna per person. The ferry runs slightly less frequently and costs about 100 Kuna per person. The trip may also be done by car and there is a parking lot just outside of Cavtat's historic center that charges 5 Kuna per hour.
 
There are several large hotels in Cavat and numerous private apartments for rent. Hotels include the 4-star Hotel Croatia, 4-star Iberostar Albatros, and 3-star Iberostar Epidaurus. For apartment rentals, contact Dubrovnik Apartment Source by email at contact@dubrovnikapartmentsource.com.
 
 
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
 
Best Beaches Outside of Dubrovnik
 
Visitors to Dubrovnik with a car have the opportunity to escape the crowds of Lapad and Old Town and explore some of the better beaches in the area. There are several great beaches in the stretch along the coast between Slano in the north and Molunat in the south, all of which are within a 45-minute drive of Dubrovnik. The following is a brief overview of a few of the most-beautiful and less-visited beaches in the Dubrovnik Riviera:
 
Veliki Zali (30 minutes north of Dubrovnik, near Slano): This is one of the most-spectacular beaches in the area and often the least crowded. Its position in a small bay protected by the Elafiti Islands makes its waters calm and clear. The beach has small stones, which are comfortably rounded, making entering and exiting the sea fairly easy. Veliki Zali is fully serviced with chair/umbr, ella rentals, a cafe bar, and a pizzeria.
 
Brsecine (25 minutes north of Dubrovnik): This secluded cove sits far below the main road heading north from Dubrovnik. The cove is occupied by just a couple of private residences, but the beach is public. There are no facilities at this beach, but there is crystal clear water, small rounded stones, and beautiful views to the Elafiti Islands.
 
Mlini (10 minutes south of Dubrovnik): This small resort town offers numerous small beaches and coves for swimming, many of which remain un-crowded despite the presence of holiday-makers in the summer months. The beaches themselves do not offer facilities, but there are many private apartments, restaurants, shops, and café bars nearby, as well as a park and playground for small children.
 
Plat (15 minute south of Dubrovnik): The Hotel Plat sits atop a rocky outcropping flanked by two beautiful pebble beaches. Both beaches are public, but the only available parking is private. In the off-season it is not a problem to park at the Hotel Plat, but during July and August be prepared to pay for this privilege. One of the two beaches offers chair/umbrella rentals and has a small restaurant/café bar.
 
Cavtat (25 minutes south of Dubrovnik): This small fishing village has several beaches and small coves for swimming. The larger beaches are located in front of the hotels and offer a variety of services including chair/umbrella rentals, boat trips, jet ski rentals, and food & drinks. Some of the best spots for swimming, however, are not beaches at all. The Cavtat peninsula is surrounded by rocks jutting out into the sea, many of which are perfect for sunbathing and diving into the Adriatic.
 
Swimming Cove, Cavtat, Croatia
 
Molunat (45 minutes south of Dubrovnik): This sleepy village sits in the far south of Croatia, just above the border of Montenegro. It does not have any real beaches to speak of, but offers some of the most-secluded swimming spots on the coast. Locals have made access to the sea easier by building staircases and attaching ladders to the rocks, but have otherwise left the natural beauty intact. The swimming spots themselves offer no services, but the town has numerous private apartments, a café bar, and a couple of small restaurants.
 
 
Saturday, July 11, 2009
 
Dubrovnik Summer Festival
 
Last night marked the kick-off of the 60th annual Dubrovnik Summer Festival. The opening ceremony, which took place in the Old Town, included a live presentation on the Stradun followed by a fireworks display. The festival continues until the 25th of August, and offers a full schedule of cultural events, including plays from Shakespeare & Drzic, jazz & classical music, traditional folk music & dance, ballet, and various readings & workshops. The festival displays the best of what Croatia has to offer, attracting actors and musicians from all over the country. The old city of Dubrovnik provides a fantastic backdrop to this historical and cultural event.
 
A full schedule of events can be found on the Dubrovnik Summer Festival website. Tickets may be purchased in the Old Town or online.
 
 
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
 
Wine Tasting on the Peljesac Peninsula
 
Madirazza Winery, Peljesac Peninsula, Croatia
 
Just an hour and a half from Dubrovnik lies one of the best wine-producing regions in Croatia: the Peljesac Peninsula. Its rugged interior and rocky coastline combine to create a dramatic backdrop to the cultivation of centuries-old vines. The region is best known for its red wines, with Plavac being the most common varietal. Wines made from this grape take on many different characteristics depending on the exact location on the peninsula where it is grown. The region has a series of microclimates, each of which produces wines with their own unique flavors, intensities, and alcohol contents. Types of reds include Plavac, Plavac Mali, Potomje, Postup, and Dingac, the region’s most-celebrated wine. Most producers also make white wines using the Posip grape, which is grown on the nearby Island of Korcula.
 
The number of wine producers offering tastings has grown in recent years, but the region still has a long way to go to rival wine regions in European and North American countries. Many producers require that visitors call in advance to, make an appointment and tastings are sometimes only allowed if tasters promise to buy several bottles of wine. For a more comfortable experience, typical of what one might find in wine regions worldwide, Madirazza and Matusko offer free tastings in beautiful, rustic surroundings.
 
The best way to visit the Peljesac Peninsula is with someone who personally knows many of the producers, and can call them in advance to plan a tasting. For visitors to Croatia, this generally means booking a private tour by car or van. Prices for a day tour are as follows:
 
1-3 people: 180 EUR
4-8 people: 200 EUR
9-18 people: 400 EUR
 
These tours can generally be combined with a stop in Mali Ston on the return to Dubrovnik for some of the best seafood & freshly shucked oysters in Croatia.
 
Tours may be booked by contacting Dubrovnik Apartment Source.
 
 
Thursday, July 2, 2009
 
Drinking, , Water in Croatia
 
One question we often get from visitors to Croatia is “Is the tap water safe to drink?”. The answer is mostly yes. It is certainly safe in Southern Dalmatia and especially in Dubrovnik, which has a great natural water source nearby. Water is generally safe to drink throughout Croatia, but it is always best to check with the locals in case it is temporarily considered undrinkable. For instance, during or after a heavy rain in Dubrovnik the water often becomes murky, and locals recommend drinking bottled water until it clears up.
 
At most restaurants diners will be offered still or sparkling water. These are bottled waters, and diners will be charged for each bottle they drink. The most popular Croatian bottled water is Jana, which has become a fashionable water to drink in and outside of the country, with even some New York City shops carrying it. It is advisable to check the price of bottled water before ordering at restaurants, as it can sometimes be 30 to 40 Kuna (4 to 5 Euros) per bottle. If you prefer to drink tap water (which is free of charge), you can usually order it by the glass or pitcher. The waiter may bring you a bottle of water anyway, but be persistent, and send it back if necessary or you will be charged.
 

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Inventive Croatian Cuisine in Dubrovnik

Until last night, I didn’t think it was possible to find creative Dalmatian cooking in Dubrovnik; I was proven wrong by Sesame, an unassuming and charming restaurant just outside of Old Town’s Pile Gate. I have not seen another restaurant in Dubrovnik take such care about where it sources its ingredients, how fresh they are, and how they are used to construct truly inventive local dishes. 

Upon arrival at Sesame we were promptly seated on the leafy terrace by our friendly and knowledgeable waiter Dejan. Dinner started with an aperitif: a local spirit flavored with sage for the men and one flavored with walnuts for the women. To begin we ordered fresh oysters from Ston (known to be the best in Croatia) and a salad made with fresh figs, prosciutto, and rucola, all served with fresh-baked sesame rolls and a selection of incredible olive oils sourced from Istria. This was followed by our main courses, which included a delicate filet of sole with fresh prawn, a beautifully presented sea bass, and veal with prosciutto in a sage sauce.

The most creative and wonderfully surprising dish of the night was the chocolate mousse dessert: a rich, thick chocolate m, ousse topped with Croatian olive oil and black volcanic salt from Hawaii. This dish really spotlights the creativity and genius of the chef/co-owner Marina Zilbert. Sesame is fairly expensive for Dubrovnik (starters from 60 to 80 Kuna and mains from 75 to 190 Kuna), but it is well worth the price for such a unique dining experience.

Sesame is located at Dante Alighieri; reservations may be made by calling +385 20 412 910 or +385 91 500 8647.

 

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Parking Near Dubrovnik's Old Town

One of the many features that make Dubrovnik’s Old Town so attractive is its pedestrian-only streets. However, this ban on vehicular traffic makes arriving by car and finding parking very difficult. After a slew of recent changes in parking laws, the local government has finally returned to the original rules that have served us well for the past few years.

With the return to the old rules, visitors can now park for as long as they like using the “pay & display” system or for free on some parts of Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila. These are the two main streets in the Ploce neighborhood, just outside of the Old Town. In addition, visitors may park in two “pay & display” parking lots located just behind the Old Town, near the Buza Gate. Under this “pay & display” system, drivers may either buy a ticket from a machine and display it in their car windows or send an SMS (from a local Croatian mobile phone) with their registration number (license plate number) to 8202. They may then send additional SMS messages to add more time, one hour per message. Parking under this “pay & display” system costs 5 Kuna per hour*. For those who cannot find a sp, ot on the street or who plan to park for an extended period of time, the city has recently completed construction of a new underground parking garage located just 10–15-minutes’ walking distance to the Old Town. Here is a map that shows the location of the new garage:

 


View Larger Map

 

There is a free shuttle bus to the Old Town that leaves on every hour and half hour. It will also take passengers back to the garage on its return trip. The following is a price list for parking:

1st 3 hours: 6 Kuna per hour*

After 1st 3 hours: 3 Kuna per hour*

24 hour ticket**: 60 Kuna*

*These were the parking rates as of 24 June 2009. Rates may increase to 10 Kuna per hour during July & August.

**Please note that drivers must notify the parking attendant that they wish to buy a 24-h, our pass immediately after parking. If they do not, they will be charged the normal hourly rate, which will equal 81 Kuna for 24 hours. Once a 24-hour pass is purchased, drivers may enter and exit the garage as many times as they like within a 24-hour period.

 

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Dubrovnik Film Festival

Next week will mark the kick-off of the 5th annual Libertas Film Festival in Dubrovnik. The festival, which will take place from 26 to 30 June, screens narratives, documentaries, and short films from around the world. This year there will be a special focus on films from Hungary with three films submitted by Hungarian directors. The festival will be moving outdoors this time, with venues that include Jadran open-air cinema in the Old Town, Banje beach, and Lapad beach. Don't miss this fantastic opportunity to see some great independent films in beautiful, historic surroundings.A schedule of films and information on where to buy tickets can be found on the Libertas Film Festival website.

 

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Bell-issima!

One of the best and most unique dining experiences in Croatia can be found high above Dubrovnik in the hills of Konavle. A pair of restaurants, Konoba Konavle in Vojski Do and Konavoski Komin in Velji Do, serve traditional lamb and veal "under the iron bell". This centuries-old cooking method involves slow cooking meat and potatoes on a platter covered by an iron dome or "bell" by burying it in smoldering embers. The meat and potatoes cook for 3 to 4 hours producing tender meat that falls off the bone and slightly caramelized potatoes that absorb the flavor of the meat. The meal is accompanied by wonderful fresh-baked bread and salad.

Lamb

All products at both restaurants are locally produced, including the prsut, cheese, and olives that are served as a starter, the excellent house wine, and the rakija (herb grappa or walnut brandy) that may be enjoyed as an aperitif or digestif. The restaurants are located far from anything else, in an alien-like landscape, but the superb quality of food, reasonable prices, and beautiful rustic décor attract guests from miles around. When visiting Konavoski Komin, make sure to leave extra time to stop and enjoy the spectacular views of the coastline on the way to dinner. Booking at both restaurants is essential as meat "under the iron bell" must be ordered one day in advance.

Reservations and pre-orders may be made by calling the following numbers:

Konoba Konavle +385 98 674 363

Konavoski Komin +385 20 479 607

 

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Dubrovnik Parking Restrictions Reversed

Dubrovnik's new parking restrictions, which were implemented in March 2006 (New Parking Rules in Dubrovnik), have now been reversed, once again allowing visitors to park at "pay & display" spots or free spots within walking distance of the Old Town. The restrictions limited parking in most of the Ploce & Pile neighborhoods to local residents with parking permits. With the return to the old rules, visitors can now park for as long as they like using the "pay & display" system or for free on some parts of Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila.

What brought about the sudden lifting in parking restrictions? According to locals it was a last-minute effort by then-Mayor Dubravk, a Suica to gather support on the eve of the Mayoral election. The parking restrictions were very unpopular among most locals and it is said that Suica needed to give the people what they wanted if she had a chance of coming out on top on 31 May. The move turned out to be too little, too late as Suica, a member of Croatia's HDZ party, was defeated by Andro Vlahusic and his center-left HNS party. However ineffective for Suica, this bit of political maneuvering will certainly make the parking situation easier for visitors to Dubrovnik this summer.

 

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Croatian Coffee Culture

Coffee drinking is one of Croatia's favorite pastimes. It's generally done with friends or family at a café, which is the local neighborhood meeting place for most Croatians, much like the pub in Ireland. Locals have perfected the art of "taking a coffee", as it is called, often making a single coffee last for hours. This is mostly because the experience is not really about drinking coffee, but more about socializing. However, there's no doubt that the relatively high price of coffee in Croatia has something to do with it too.

So, all visitors to Croatia (and especially Dubrovnik) must take the time to sit and "take a coffee" at least once during their stay. Coffee drinks served at most cafes are similar to those served in Italy or in Austria; after all, Croatia inherited its coffee drinking culture from these nations. Popular drinks include the cappuccino, bijela kava (white coffee, like a café latte), and espresso. For Americans looking for American-style filter coffee, you won't find it here; the closest thing is an americano, which is a shot of espresso diluted with hot water. Also popular with locals is Nescafe, an instant coffee drink made from a powder; it's fairly sweet and not as strong, as a real espresso drink. One other drink worth mentioning is the iced coffee; in most cases this is not just coffee on ice, but a drink with espresso and ice cream.

Now that you know what to order, the only question left is where to enjoy your coffee. Croatia, and Dubrovnik in particular, has no shortage of cafes. The cafes lining the Stradun in Dubrovnik's Old Town certainly look inviting, but there are a few things to consider first. A coffee on the Stradun can cost as much as twice that of one just a couple of streets away. In addition, during the summer months most of the other patrons will be tourists. Of course, I'm not suggesting that you shun the Stradun all together; a coffee in the sun on Dubrovnik's most famous street can be an unforgettable experience. For a genuine feel, I suggest taking a seat at Café Festival, the only café on the Pile end of the Stradun. Or for a truly old-world Viennese style coffee house, check out GradsKavana, just off of the Stradun near St. Blaise church and Rector's Palace.

Outside of the Old Town the price for coffee drops dramatically, but the choices do not. There are several nice cafes on the pedestrian-only Setaliste Kralja Zvonimira in Lapad, and Iva Vojnovica is home to several modern, trendy café bars popular with young locals. You'll know it by the line of Mercedes parked on the street and the Gucci and Prada sunglasses peering out from inside the cafes. Another great, but expensive, option is to have a coffee in one of the many beautiful hotels in Dubrovnik. I particularly recommend the Dubrovnik Palace in Lapad for the great coffee, good service, and spectacular views. The service and coffee are also tops at the Hilton Imperial Hotel and the Hotel Bellevue.

If you enjoy drinking coffee, I would suggest trying a few different cafes until you find one that suits you. It may turn out to be a small café frequented only by locals or one of the busy cafes on Stradun with tourists vying for the best tables. Either way, you will have experienced an important part of Croatian culture by taking the time "to take a coffee."

 

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Local Dubrovnik Buses

The local Libertas bus is a great way to get around Dubrovnik. Most buses, originate at either the main bus station in Gruz Harbor or the Pile Gate entrance to Old Town. From the Old Town, buses run frequently to Gorica, Lapad, Bosanka, Mlini, Soline, Plat, Cavtat, Gruda, and Molunat. They also go north to Mokosica, Zaton, Slano, Mali Ston, and once per day to Orebic. Most trips cost 10 Kuna and tickets may be purchased in cash on the bus or at the bus station. Exact change is required when purchasing tickets on the bus.

Schedules for Dubrovnik city bus routes can be viewed here: Dubrovnik City Buses.

Schedules for Dubrovnik suburban bus routes can be viewed here: Dubrovnik Suburban Buses.

 

Friday, May 29, 2009

Travel from Dubrovnik to Montenegro

Even before gaining its independence from Serbia in 2006, Montenegro was on its way to becoming a major tourist destination. Most visitors to Montenegro arrive at Tivat airport, near the bay of Kotor. However, many travelers visit Montenegro for a few days in conjunction with a stay in Croatia or even as a day-trip from Dubrovnik. The most popular destinations are Kotor, Budva, and Sveti Stefan, all of which are on the coast. The following is a brief overview of the available travel options from Dubrovnik to Montenegro:

1.) Bus: There are daily bus routes from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Budva, and Herceg Novi. Buses to all 3 destinations leave Dubrovnik's main bus station in Gruz Harbor at 10:30 hrs each morning with an additional bus at 20:30 hrs on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. In addition, there is a daily bus to Herceg Novi departing at 15:30 hrs. For those visiting Montenegro's capital city, Podgorica, buses leave Dubrovnik at 5:45 hrs on Mondays and 15:00 hrs on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Bus schedules can be viewed online at Libertas Dubrovnik.

2.) Taxi: For travelers , that are tight on time or want a bit more comfort, taxi transfers are a good way to get to Montenegro. A transfer from Dubrovnik to Kotor or the Tivat airport costs approximately 180 EUR for 1 - 3 people, 200 EUR for 4 - 8 people, and 400 EUR for 9 - 18 people. For more information on taxi transfers, please see the article Taxi Service in Dubrovnik.

3.) Rental Car: Most rental companies allow cars to be taken to Montenegro, but be sure to check that they have supplied you with the necessary insurance and paperwork before taking the car over the border. If the car has not crossed the border recently, customs agents will charge you a 10 EUR Eco-Tax and put a sticker on the car that is valid for 1 year. The main border crossing on the coastal road is heavily trafficked and wait times can be as long as 2 hours during the busy summer season. There is a smaller border crossing with minimal or no wait times on the road from Molunat to Montenegro; if you can find it, it's worth leaving the main road to avoid the traffic. Just follow the signs for Molunat and the Prevlaka National Park, and then take a left when you reach the sea.

 

Monday, May 25, 2009

Travel from Dubrovnik to Hvar

The Island of Hvar is one of the most popular summer destinations in Southern Dalmatia, and is known for its natural beauty and great nightlife. It is easiest to travel to Hvar from Split, but it can be reached from Dubrovnik directly by ferry or by a combination of bus or rental car and ferry. The following is an overview of the available travel options from Dubrovnik to Hvar:

1.) Direct ferry from Dubrovnik: During the summer season, Jardolinija operates a ferry from Dubrovnik to Hvar on Thursdays & Sundays, making a stop in Korcula on the way. The journey takes approximately 6.5 hours and tickets are priced at 17,50 EUR per person and 55,00 EUR for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season). Detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.

2.) Ferry from Drvenik: The quickest and most-direct route from Dubrovnik to Hvar is by car or bus to Drvenik and then ferry to Sucuraj. Drvenik is a small town on the Makarska Riveria, located midway between Ploce and Markarska. It can be reached by car or by taking the Dubrovnik - Split bus and exiting at Drvenik. The ferry operates 10 times per day during the summer season and takes 25 minutes to reach Sucuraj. Tickets are priced at 13 Kuna (2 EUR) per person and 95 Kuna (13 EUR) for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season). Once in Sucuraj, which is on the eastern end of the island, visitors must drive or take a bus to Hvar town at the other end of the island. Ferry schedules can be viewed at the Jadrolinija website.

3.) Ferry from Split: The most frequently traveled route to Hvar is from Split. From Dubrovnik it is possible to drive or take a bus to Split and then catch the ferry to the island of Hvar (for information on travel to Split see the article Travel from Dubrovnik to Split). If traveling without a car, it is best to take the high-speed catamaran directly to Hvar town, which leaves Split daily at 11:30 and 15:00. The journey takes approximately one hour and costs 22 Kuna (3 EUR) per person. If traveling by car, the ferry from Split arrives in Stari Grad, which is 20- to 30-minutes' driving distance from Hvar town. This ferry operates 6 times per day and the journey takes approximately two hours. Again, detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.

 

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Travel from Dubrovnik to Korcula

A popular stop along the Dalmatian Coast is the Island of Korcula. It lies just off of the Peljesac Peninsula, approximately 2 hours northwest of Dubrovnik by car or ferry. There are 2 routes used to reach Korcula from Dubrovnik; the following is an overview of each:

1.) Direct ferry from Dubrovnik: During the summer season, Jardolinija operates a ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, & Sundays. The ferry is direct on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but makes a stop in Mljet on all other days. The journey takes 3 hours direct and 4 hours and 10 minutes with the stop in Mljet. Tickets are priced at 14,50 EUR per person and 53,00 EUR for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season). Detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.

2.) Travel to Orebic and then ferry to Korcula: Orebic is a small town on the western end of the Peljesac Peninsula, approximately 2 hours drive from Dubrovnik. From Orebic, there is a local car and passenger ferry to Korcula that operates at least 12 times per day, 7 days per week. The ferry costs approximately 14 Kuna per person (about 2 EUR) and 64 Kuna (about 9 EUR) for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season). Detailed schedule and pricing information can be found on the following website: Korcula Info. Travel from Dubrovnik to Orebic can be accomplished in 3 ways: rental car, public bus, or long-distance bus. If you rent a car you will have to take it with you to Korcula and then return it to the mainland after your stay on the island as there is nowhere to leave the car in Orebic. The public bus is a good, reasonably-priced option, but it only leaves Dubrovnik's main bus station once per day at 14:15 hrs, except on Sundays and holidays when it leaves only at 18:00 hrs (schedule can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik). Once in Orebic, you will have to buy tickets for the passenger ferry to Korcula. There is also a direct long-distance bus from Dubrovnik to Korcula that leaves Dubrovnik's main bus station once per day at 15:00 hrs as well as at 18:00 hrs on Sundays (schedule can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik). This option takes passengers directly to Korcula and the ferry ticket is included in the price of the bus ticket.

 

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Travel from Dubrovnik to Split

With the summer season fast approaching, many tourists will be traveling up and down the Dalmatian Coast, visiting numerous small towns and islands along the way. One of the most popular routes is Dubrovnik to Split or vice-versa. There are 4 modes of transportation between these two cities; the following is an overview of the time and cost involved in each:

1.) Ferry: This is the most pleasant way to travel, but also the slowest. The ferry route goes from Dubrovnik - Korcula - Hvar - Split and then the reverse in the other direction. The journey takes approximately 8.5 hours and costs 17,50 EUR per person and 55,00 EUR for a car (these are high-season prices; slightly lower prices apply in low season). The ferry operates twice weekly, on Thursdays and Sundays from Dubrovnik to Split and on Tuesdays and Saturdays from Split to Dubr, ovnik. Detailed schedule information, pricing, and on-line booking is available at the Jadrolinija website.

2.) Bus: This is the most economical and most convenient way to travel. Buses depart Split and Dubrovnik almost every hour with over 15 trips per day. Tickets cost between 90 and 120 Kuna (between 12 and 16 EUR) per person, each way. The journey generally takes 4.5 to 5 hours and offers spectacular sea views along the way. Detailed bus schedules can be viewed at Libertas Dubrovnik.

3.) Private car transfer: This is the most comfortable, but most expensive way to travel. The route will be the same as by bus, but will be slightly faster as it does not involve any stops along the way (unless you want to stop). Prices for private transfers vary, but are approximately 200 - 240 EUR each way for 1 - 3 people, 240 - 260 EUR for 4 - 8 people, and 500 - 550 EUR for 9 - 18 people. Transfers may be arranged at Taxi Service Dubrovnik or Queen Service Dubrovnik.

4.) Rental car: This mode of transportation offers the most flexibility as it allows you to stop frequently and explore some of the beautiful coastal villages along the way. Most car rental companies charge an additional 1-way return fee for rentals in Dubrovnik with returns in Split (or vice-versa). Major rental companies such as Avis, Hertz, and Europcar have offices in both cities, but for better rates contact Euro Car Rentals, a local Dubrovnik company.

Coming soon...information on travel to other locations such as Korcula, Hvar, and Montenegro.

   

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Dubrovnik Bar Guide

Dubrovnik is not known for its nightlife; those looking for an all-night party scene with an international crowd and world-renowned DJs would be best to go to Hvar. That said, a good time can be had in Dubrovnik if you know where to go. The following is a list of our favorite bars. Most are frequented by bot, h locals and foreigners and are fairly laid-back places, perfect for a glass of wine in the evening or a few beers at night. They're also good bars in which to meet other travelers passing through.

D'Vino, Palmoticeva 4a Dubrovnik's only real wine bar, D'Vino offers a cozy atmosphere and an extensive wine list representing many different regions of Croatia as well as Italy, France, Spain, Australia, and South America. A visit to D'Vino is a great opportunity to sample various Croatian vin, tages by the glass and to learn what each region has to offer.

Katie O'Connor's Irish Pub, Dropceva 4a Irish and Croatian beers on tap, free wireless Internet access, and a friendly atmosphere make this an excellent place to kick back and relax for an hour or four. This is also Dubrovnik's go-to spot for European football, rugby, and cricket.

Buza Bar, Od Kastela Follow the sign for "Cold Drinks" and duck through an opening in the city walls to find this cliffside hangout. The atmosphere is casual (plastic chairs and cans of beer) but the views are first-class, making it one of the most popular bars in Dubrovnik, especially at sunset. It is also a popular spot among locals for swimming from the rocks below.

Piano Bar at the Hotel Excelsior, Frana Supila (10 minutes' walking distance past Ploce Gate) This elegant hotel bar has a spacious outdoor terrace with the best views in Dubrovnik. It is a great place to have a drink while watching the sun set over the Old Town. 

The Gaffe, Miha Pracata 4 Another good place to stop into for a pint. The inside can get a bit smoky when busy, but the outdoor garden offers a good alternative.  P.S. They also serve decent pub , food.

Hemmingway's, Poljana M. Držica A great place to relax with a cocktail from their extensive (but pricey) menu. The outdoor seating in front offers great people-watching right near the Cathedral.

 

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Dubrovnik Airport

The Dubrovnik International Airport (DBV) is located in Cilipi, approximately 35 minutes from Dubrovnik by car or bus and only 5 to 10 minutes from Cavtat. The airport mostly serves flights from European countries, but has also seen direct flights from Asia and the Middle East. Arriving at an, d departing from the Dubrovnik airport is generally a stress-free experience, and passengers are processed quickly. Since the airport is small, we recommend arriving at the airport only 1 to 1½ hours before your departure time.

When arriving at the airport, visitors will find two transportation options to Dubrovnik. Atlas operates a bus to Old Town's Pile Gate, which departs the airport shortly after every scheduled flight arrival. The bus trip is priced at 35 Kuna or 5 Euro per person. A taxi to Dubrovnik costs 220 Kuna /30 Euro for 1 – 3 people or 300 Kuna/40 Euro for 4 – 8 people. For taxi transfer prices to additional locations please see the article "Taxi Service in Dubrovnik".

The Dubrovnik airport also offers additional services such as Duty-Free shopping, currency exchange, ATM machines, souvenir shops, coffee shops, and parking. For those driving to the airport, parking prices are as follows:

1st 15 minutes: Free

15 minutes – 1 hour: 5 Kuna,

1 – 2 hours: 10 Kuna

2 – 4 hours: 15 Kuna

4 - 12 hours: 20 Kuna

12 – 24 hours: 40 Kuna

Every hour thereafter: 2 Kuna

Lost ticket: 300 Kuna

More information about the Dubrovnik airport as well as flight arrival and departure schedules may be obtained at www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.

 

Monday, May 4, 2009

Old Town Parking Garage Prices

Many visitors to Dubrovnik come by car, but parking is a problem for those staying in or within walking distance of the Old Town. Cars are not permitted inside the city walls and new parking regulations all but prohibit street parking in Ploce & Pile, the neighborhoods surrounding the Old Town. Thankfully, the city has recently completed construction of a new underground parking garage located just 10–15-minutes’ walking distance to the Old , Town. Here is a map that shows the location of the new garage:

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There is a free shuttle bus to the Old Town that leaves on every hour and half hour. It will also take passengers back to the garage on its return trip. The following is a price list for parking:

1st 3 hours: 6 Kuna per hour

After 1st 3 hours: 3 Kuna per hour

24 hour ticket*: 60 Kuna

*Please note that drivers must notify the parking attendant that they wish to buy a 24-hour pass immediately after parking. If they do not, they will be charged the normal hourly rate, which will equal 81 Kuna for 24 hours. Once a 24-hour pass is purchased, drivers may enter and exit the garage as many times as they like within a 24-hour period.

 

Thursday, April 30, 2009

A Taste of Turkey in Dubrovnik

We have anxiously awaited the opening of Orient Kebab, a new take-out restaurant in the Old Town. The wait is finally over and the Turkish Kebab shop is a welcome addition to Dubrovnik's limited fast-food selection. The owner, a native of Turkey, cooks succulent lamb on a turning spit, chicken & veal kebabs, chevapcici, and meatballs, all served on fresh-baked flatbread with your choice of sauce and toppings. The shop is open for lunch and dinner and the owner plans to have extended hours on weekends to serve late-night kebabs to those stumbling out of the bars in Old Town. This should prove popular as there are currently very few choices for late-night dining in Dubrovnik.

Orient Kebab is located on Cubranoviceva street, between the Stradun and Od Puca in the Old Town.

 

Monday, April 27, 2009

Golden Sun Casino, Dubrovnik

Last night we made our first trip to the Golden Sun Casino in the Hotel Rixos Libertas. The 1300-square-meter space looks as you would expect a casino to be: dim lighting, neon colors, and shiny metal slots. All the big games are there, including Black Jack, Roulette, Caribbean Poker, Three Card Poker, and Texas Hold'em. Minimum bets range from 2 to 5 Euro depending on the time of day; come early if you want to avoid the 5 Euro minimums that start at 22:00 hrs. The drinks are very reasonably priced (although not free, even while playing at a table) and the bar food is passable. One pleasant surprise was the live band lead by a great female vocalist who sang mostly American and Country favorites. The only real downside to the place is that it can get quite smoky at times and some of the other patrons are less than desirable. It is certainly a fun night-out in Dubrovnik and, with a little luck, a cheap one.

The Golden Sun Casino is located in the Hotel Rixos Libertas in Gorica. It may be reached from the Old Town in about 20 minutes by foot or just 5 minutes by taxi. Remember to bring your passport as it is required for entry.

 

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Croatia Visa Requirements to be Lifted 

The Croatian government has announced that it plans to lift the visa requirements for some visitors to Croatia this summer (Tourism boost: Croatia to ease visa requirements for some countries). Croatian Tourism Minister Damir Bajs has suggested that the requirements be lifted for citizens of Russia, Ukraine, China, and India, countries whose citizens must now apply for visas before leaving for their holidays. The move is in response to an expectation that visitors to Croatia will drop by 3% this year compared to last year. Such a shortage of visitors could cause further damage to an already weakened economy. In addition to the lifted visa requirements, the Croatian government has also agreed to allow Russian aircraft to land in the country between 1 May and 31 October (Croatia to allow landing of old, noisy Russian aircraft). The old aircraft have been, banned from most EU member states because they are known to be noisy. It is hoped that these measures will attract enough visitors to make up for the expected loss of tourists from countries such as Germany, Austria, Italy, and Slovenia.

 

Monday, April 13, 2009

Sunday Shopping Banned in Croatia

In an effort to protect family life, the Croatian government has passed a new law banning the opening of shops on Sundays. To ease the impact on tourism, the law contains an exemption for stores on the coast between 1 June and 1 September. Locals in tourist destinations such as Dubrovnik are frustrated with the new law and are already seeing its negative impact. Visitors to the Dalmatia Coast start arriving in large numbers beginning in April and they unexpectedly find that there are no open shops where they can buy bottled water or food items. Restaurant owners, who sometimes rely on local supermarkets when they run out of ingredients on a Sunday, are seeing the impact as well.

Sunday in Croatia is traditionally spent at home with the family. Families often go to church together, have a long lunch, and perhaps take an afternoon walk. Many locals think that the new law is connected with falling church attendance. The logic is that if employees spend the day working instead of with their families they will not go to church and will not make their weekly donations. It is widely believed that the church wields much power in this small nation, 88% of whose population is Catholic.

In response to the outcry along the coast, the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts (HOK) has asked the government for a fast-track decree enabling shops to be open on Sundays beginning on Easter (12 April) instead of 1 June. However, Easter has passed and there is no sign of a change in the law. It is unclear if the government will repeal or amend the law in the near future, but for now visitors to Croatia should be advised to stock up on bottled water and other necessities on Saturday.

 

Friday, April 10, 2009

Taxi Service in Dubrovnik

Most taxi services in Dubrovnik are safe and charge about the same rate for trips to and from the airport or to other local destinations. However, there are some illegal taxis that will charge less to attract customers or more to take advantage of unsuspecting tourists. The following is a list of estimated rates for popular routes in and around Dubrovnik. These are merely guidelines and may vary , depending on the time of the year and type of vehicle doing the transfer:

Dubrovnik Airport to:

Dubrovnik

1 - 3 people: 30 EUR/220 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 40 EUR/300 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 80 EUR/600 Kuna

Cavtat & Plat

1 - 3 people: 15 EUR/110 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 30 EUR/220 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 60 EUR/440 Kuna

Soline/Mlini

1 - 3 people: 20 EUR/150 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 30 EUR/220 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 60 EUR/440 Kuna

Dubrovnik to:

Tivat/Kotor

1 - 3 people: 180 EUR/1320 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 200 EUR/1460 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 400 EUR/3000 Kuna

Split

1 - 3 people: 240 EUR/1750 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 260 EUR/1900 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 520 EUR/3800 Kuna

Korcula

1 - 3 people: 220 EUR/1600 Kuna

4 - 8 people: 250 EUR/1830 Kuna

9 - 18 people: 500 EUR/3650 Kuna

The following taxi services are safe and reliable and, are reasonably priced:

Taxi Service Dubrovnik, + 385 98 725 769

Queen Service Dubrovnik, + 385 91 22 55 027

 

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Property Managers in Dubrovnik

With the large number of rental properties and foreign-owned residences in Dubrovnik, property management has become a popular trade. Services offered by most management companies include key holding, rental calendar management, meet & greet services, maintenance/cleaning, and gardening. Property managers can also be extremely helpful in navigating the murky waters of registering a property for rental. Fee schedules vary and are generally fixed for minding and maintaining a property and are percentage-based for rental management. Property management is a fairly easy business to enter, but it can be difficult to do well. The following is a short list of the most efficient & reliable property managers in Dubrovnik:

Dubrovnik Property Management, Contact: Ivana, www.dubrovnik-propertymanagement.com, info@dubrovnik-propertymanagement.com, +385 98 564 777

Property Management Ltd., Contact: Anna & Aldin, www.Dubrovnik-Property-Management.com, info@dubrovnik-property-management.com, +385 98 186 9246

Home Keep Croatia, Contact: Azra, www.HomeKeepCroatia.com, info@homekeepcroatia.com, +385 99 222 8084

 

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Best Cakes in Dubrovnik

Krem Pita, Strudla, and Palacinke are fine, but for those looking for some variety, there is a new pastry chef in town. Her name is Gabi and her cakes are exquisite. After working in the finest 5-star hotels in Dubrovnik, Gabi has opened her own bakeshop at Od Batala 25 in Lapad, where she sells only whole cakes, which can be ordered in advance for weddings, birthdays, and other special occasions. Those who just want to sample a slice can find her creations exclusively at Nishta in the Old Town. Fresh baked favorites include carrot cake, cheese cake, and apple pie among other tempting varieties. Let's hope that Gabi's cakes are soon more widely available as they certainly make getting through the long Dubrovnik winters much easier.

Gabi can be contacted at +385 91 761 9550 or through her website www.Slasticarna.com.

 

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Real Estate Agents in Dubrovnik

The last decade's exponential growth in real estate prices in Dubrovnik has led to a similar growth in the number of real estate agents. Easy sales and little or no licensing requirements have created few barriers to entering the market. However, with the new worldwide economic reality setting in and the advent of stricter licensing standards, many real estate agents in Dubrovnik have been forced to close. Among those that have shut their Dubrovnik offices this year are Croatian Sun and Winkworth, two former prominent players in the market.

Despite economic woes and poor sales, this may be a good time to buy property in Dubrovnik. Prices have dropped and there are some bargains to be found. One agency, Savills Croatia, has just opened a new office in the luxury Hotel Bellevue and is determined to continue selling properties during these tough economic times. With their connection to the large UK agency of the same name and their excellent staff, it is no wonder that Savills Croatia is the go-to agency for buying and selling property in Dubrovnik.

 

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

New Parking Rules in Dubrovnik

Visitors to the Old Town that come by car are in for a surprise this week: parking is no longer permitted in most former "pay & display" areas around the walled city. The new regulations prohibit parking for all but local residents along Petra Kresimira IV and Frana Supila, streets that formerly offered a mix of free and paid parking spots. The only parking options now available to visitors are in the parking lot and street just behind the Buza Gate. These spots operate on the "pay & display" system and limit drivers to just two hours.

The new regulations have not been received well in the community and many locals are angry. Some people have suggested that the new rules are an attempt to force motorists to use the new parking garage in Ilina Glavica. The new garage was completed in late 2008 and it is said that it has been mostly empty since its opening. In response to the new parking regulations, some locals have vowed not to visit the Old Town rather then be forced into the new garage, which is, 10 - 15 minutes away by foot from the walled city. The city does offer a free shuttle bus for drivers between the Old Town and the new garage.

On the other side of the issue, the new regulations should improve the parking situation for residents of the Old Town, Ploce, and Pile. Dubrovnik is infamous for its lack of parking, especially during the summer months when thousands of foreign cars descend upon the small city. Forcing many of these visito, rs to park in the new garage should allow traffic to flow more freely around the Old Town and allow locals to find parking close to their homes.

It is unclear if these changes are here to stay or if the local government will reconsider their effect on visitors to the Old Town. Many seem to think that the new rules are merely a precursor to the upcoming elections and that things will return to normal thereafter. Whatever the outcome, motorists should familiarize themselves with the new rules to avoid getting ticketed or towed away.

 

Friday, March 20, 2009

Shakedown at the Slovenian Border

Drivers passing through Slovenia on their way to Croatia beware! In 2008 the Slovenian government introduced a road tax of 35 Euro for all vehicles using the country's motorways. The catch is that you have to know about this tax and buy a vignette before entering Slovenia. If you cross the border without the sticker on your windshield you can be fined up to 300 Euro. Slovenian police have set up checkpoints just over the borders to stop cars with foreign registrations and to fine drivers who do not have the vignette. Fines must be paid on the spot in either cash or by credit card.The European Commission has said that the system discriminates against foreigners and has sent a formal warning notice to the Slovenian government ("Commission warns Slovenia over 'unfair' road tax"). This notice, which was sent in October 2008, was the first step in a procedure that could result in referring Slovenia to the European Court of Justice. As of March 2009 there have been no changes to the system. Drivers planning to travel to Croatia this summer: be sure to buy your Slovenian road tax vignette before crossing the border.

 

Monday, March 16, 2009

Dubrovnik Restaurant Guide - Part 3

Some of the best dining in Dubrovnik can be found outside of the Old Town, away from the crowds and package-holiday tourists. The following is a short list of exceptional restaurants that are worth traveling to:

Konoba Atlantico, Kardinala Stepinca (Lapad) This small, family-run Italian restaurant serves excellent homemade pastas and sauces. They also have perfectly-crispy, thin-crust pizza and good house wine.

Gallija, Vulicevica 1 (Cavtat) The best of all the waterfront restaurants in Cavtat, Gallija serves meat and seafood from the grill as well as other typical Dalmatian specialties such as pastas and risotto. The real draw here is the stunning candle-lit setting overlooking the harbor.

Konoba Konavle, (Vojski Do) Prices are low, portions are huge, and the service is impeccable at this out-of-the-way family restaurant which occupies the space of the former railway station on top of the mountain behind the airport. We recommend ordering lamb, veal, or octopus slow-roasted under the iron bell (you must call to order at least 4 hours in advance - 020 780 7914 or 098 674 363). The homemade cheeses, pršut (smoked ham), and brandies are also excellent.

Bistro Zupcica, (Soline) At first glance this appears to be just another road-side café/pizzeria, but further inspection reveals it to be one of the best restaurants in the area. They specialize in grilled meats and traditional meat "under the iron bell", which must be ordered one day in advance. The pizza is also excellent and is available to-go for those staying nearby. This restaurant is popular with locals on the weekends, so be sure to book in advance.

Coming soon...a guide to Dubrovnik's best nightlife!

 

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Dubrovnik Restaurant Guide - Part 2

Because of the large numbers of tourists and restaurants geared toward them, choosing where to dine in the Old Town can be particularly challenging. The following is a list of some of our favorites:

Proto, Siroka Ulica 1  Upscale seafood restaurant with a beautiful 2nd floor outdoor terrace seating area. It is slightly more expensive than most other Old Town options, but the unique menu, high-quality food, and outstanding service are definitely worth it.

Nishta, Prijeko 30  A gem among the sea of tourist-trap restaurants that line this street, this is Dubrovnik's only vegetarian restaurant. The small menu has an international flair with dishes ranging from red Thai curry to tempeh burritos. Note to meat-eaters: do not be deterred by the 'vegetarian' label as this restaurant receives rave reviews from everyone!

Kamenice, Gunduliceva Poljana 8  The name means "oysters", so you can guess what their specialty is, but the fried calamari & steamed mussels are also extremely good. This inexpensive restaurant is a favorite among locals.

Taj Mahal, Nikole Gucetica 2  Homemade Bosnian food; inexpensive and very good. Try the Cevapcici (which is like a kabob sandwich), but if meat isn't your thing they also have an excellent grilled vegetable plate and greek salad. Portions are huge and prices are low.

Lanterna, Nikole Gucetica 2  Right next door to Taj Mahal, this restaurant serves excellent homemade Croatian food and is very inexpensive. For those who want to indulge (and who are not concerned about their waistlines), we strongly suggest trying the mixed grill, , a decadent entree which includes pretty much everything on the menu.

Spaghetteria Toni, N. Bozidarevica 14 A cute little, Italian restaurant that serves excellent baked pasta dishes (try the lasagna), a wide variety of traditional Italian pastas and huge salads at good prices.

Dubrovacki Kantun, Boskoviceva 5 Another cute, inexpensive, restaurant which serves traditional Dubrovnik & Mediterranean cuisine. We've tried the fresh seafood, the traditional meat dishes (Pasticada), and the cheese in oil, all of which are excellent.

 

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Dubrovnik Restaurant Guide - Part 1

There are so many restaurants in Dubrovnik that choosing one can be a risky undertaking. Living in Dubrovnik, we have had the opportunity to try just about every one and to come up with a list of our favorites. I plan to share this list here over the next several entries and to give some helpful advice on dining out. Dobar Tek!

First, a few rules: The overall quality of food in Dubrovnik is good and you may even have some great dining experiences, but there are also some pitfalls to avoid. In order to choose good restaurants and to avoid being overcharged, follow these simple guidelines:

1. At the risk of stating the obvious, avoid the restaurant hawkers that stand on the Stradun accosting tourists all day. Not only are they annoying, but they will also lead you to overpriced tourist-trap restaurants serving poor quality food.

2. Tap water is safe to drink, and is even quite good. But if you prefer to order bottled water, make sure you know what the price is in advance. Bottled water is one of those hidden costs that can easily run up the bill in Dubrovnik.

3. Always check the bill at the end of the meal. Make sure that, the prices of the items you ordered match what is written on the menu, especially if you have ordered a bottle of wine (make sure you received the correct vintage).

4. Take care when ordering fresh fish that is priced by the kilo. This menu item is one of the best things to enjoy in Dubrovnik, but also one that is prone to abuse by opportunistic restaurateurs. When you select your fish,, ask the waiter/kitchen to weigh it and tell you the approximate weight. You will then have an idea of what it will cost. Likewise, if the special seafood dish recited by the waiter sounds too good to pass up, make sure you ask the price.

Up next: Where to dine in the Old Town without paying tourist prices for poor quality food!

 

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Weddings in Dubrovnik

 

Wedding at Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik, Croatia

 

Dubrovnik is fast becoming a popular location for destination weddings. Its reliable weather, unique culture, and charming architecture make it the perfect backdrop for your special day. Unfortunately, the increased popularity of weddings in Dubrovnik has also brought about increased prices. That said, a wedding can still be hosted in Dubrovnik at only a fraction of the cost of a typical American or Western European wedding.

The first step in planning a wedding in Dubrovnik is to hire a wedding planner. Unless you live in Croatia and speak the language, it will not be possible to file all the necessary paperwork to make the marriage legal. There are some very specific requirements and meeting deadlines is critical. A wedding planner will also have the connections needed to plan your ceremony & reception, hire your photographer, order your flowers, and arrange transportation if necessary. There are several wedding planners in Dubrovnik; I would recommend contacting one of the following:

Dubrovnik Riviera Weddings - Nina Bos: +385 (0)20 33 21 69, weddingplanner@dubrovnikweddings.com

Weddings in Dubrovnik - Steve & Sanela Enstone: +385 (0)20 417 589, sanela-steve@weddingsindubrovnik.com

Whether you plan to have a religious ceremony or a civil wedding, there are lots of great venues for nuptials in Dubrovnik. Saint Blaise church on the Stradun is a favorite among locals and Sponza Palace just across the street (pictured above) is a beautiful setting , for , civil ceremonies. Receptions can be held at most hotels in Dubrovnik; I particularly like the Palm Terrace at the Hotel Excelsior and the Dubrovnik Palace in Lapad. Finally, don't forget about your guests. It can be difficult to plan a trip to Dubrovnik and couples should make it as easy as possible for people to attend their wedding. This includes researching flight routes, providing a list of accommodations (or asking an agency such as Dubrovnik Apartment Source to work directly with your guests), and planning group activities in the days leading up to and after the wedding. If you give your guests a great holiday in addition to a great wedding day, they will thank you for it.

 

 

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Croatian Culinary Treasures

 

  Croatian Culinary Treasures Kitchen

 

Ira & Boris Rakic began giving cooking and gastronomy courses to share some of the recipes that have been passed down within the family for generations. They used their artistic talents to create a stunning setting in which to hold these courses at Villa Pape in Trogir. Ira's cooking is influenced by the many regions of Croatia, which represent the diverse background of her family itself. The classes include trips to the market to select ingredients, which are always natural, seasonal, locally-produced, and (whenever possible) organic. Cooking is done slowly and in the time-honored fashion of generations past. Even the wine and olive oil served is produced locally and is some of the best available in Croatia. A meal prepared by Ira is unlike any meal that can be , had in a Croatian restaurant. It is truly a unique culinary experience that will leave you trying to recreate it in your own kitchen.

Ira & Boris offer 1 - 5 day cooking courses from 1 April to 31 May and 15 September to 31 October. They offer just 1-day cooking courses from 1 June to 15 September. For those who prefer to eat than cook, tasting programs are available from 1 April to 31 October.

 

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Dubrovnik Beaches

Many visitors come to Dubrovnik in search of the perfect beach holiday and with crystal clear waters and nearly perfect weather from May to October, most will have no problem finding it. However, some first-time visitors are surprised to find that Dubrovnik does not offer the kind of white, sandy beaches that are found at many other holiday destinations. Beaches in Dubrovnik and along the Dalmatian coast are generally comprised of small pebbles and rocks whose surfaces have been rounded by the tides. Often, what many locals call “beaches” are merely concrete slabs or large rocks from which swimmers can enter the sea. For those that require at least a pebble beach with a gradual slope to the sea, the following is a list of recommended local Dubrovnik beaches:

Banje Beach: The most popular beach in Dubrovnik and with good reason: the proximity an, d views to the Old Town are unparalleled. This is about as close as it comes to a sandy beach in Dubrovnik (pebbles are small) and the protection offered by Lokrum Island and the Old Town make it an ideal swimming beach for children. The East West Club offers lounge chair & umbrella rentals and serves cocktails & snacks at the restaurant/bar. The walk down to the beach requires several flights of stairs, but its location just next to the Old Town in the neighborhood of Ploce make it one of the most convenient beaches in Dubrovnik.

 

Banje Beach, Dubrovnik, Croatia

 

Lapad Beach: Another popular beach in a great location, Lapad beach sits at the end of a pedestrian-only street surrounded by restaurants, cafe bars, and ice cream shops. It gets crowded with vacationing families in the summer months, but those who value their privacy can easily find lots of secluded swimming spots just a few meters away if they walk a little further out onto the Lapad peninsula.

Sveti Jakov: Popular with locals, this beach is difficult to reach, but is well worth the several flights of steep stairs required. The pebble beach offers fantastic swimming conditions and great views of the Old Town, which is just 30 minutes away by foot. To reach Sveti Jakov, simply exit the Old Town at the Ploce Gate and walk toward the Excelsior Hotel with Banje Beach on your right. After passing the Grand Villa Argentina, bear to the right down the small side street and continue on to the end. There will be a small church (the church of Sveti Jakov) with the entrance to the beach just behind.

Lokrum Island: A small island easily visible from the Old Town and reachable by ferry from the Old Port. There are a couple of beaches on the island and lots of secluded places for swimming (including one nude beach at the far end). Lokrum makes an easy half-day trip from Dubrovnik and is a great way to escape the summer crowds of Banje beach.

Copacabana Beach: This is Dubrovnik’s most family-friendly beach and one of its most popular. It is located on the Lapad peninsula close to many hotels and shops. The beach club offers many amenities including lounge chairs & umbrella rentals; water sports such as waterpolo, water-skiing, parasailing, scuba diving, and windsurfing; sea slides for children; ice creams stands; and a beach bar. Of course, all these extras attract big crowds in the summer months.

Uvala Lapad: This stretch of beach goes from the center of Lapad to the Dubrovnik Palace Hotel. It is a mix of large rocks, concrete slabs, and small sections of pebble beach. Parking is very difficult to find, but those who come by foot or public bus will be rewarded with an often nearly-empty beach and beautiful, tranquil surroundings.

 

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Hello from Snowy Dubrovnik?

Everyone in town is very excited about the snowfall today, apparently the first of its kind in 20 years. It is said that 15 – 20 centimeters have accumulated so far and it shows no signs of stopping. This has been enough to close all schools, grind road traffic to a halt, and keep most people at home. Here are a couple of photos of what Dubrovnik looks like today:

  

Snow in Dubrovnik, Croatia  Snow in Dubrovnik, Croatia

 

Enjoy it while it lasts because no doubt warmer weather and the tourist season is just around the corner!

 

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Kayak Tours in Dubrovnik

When American Tammy Resor first came to Dubrovnik she found a beautiful, unspoiled paradise, but very few ways to experience it. When she discovered that the best way to take in the beauty of Dubrovnik was from the sea, she decided to start Adriatic Kayak Tours. In business since 2005, Tammy and her team of knowledgeable guides offer a variety of programs for beginners (no experience necessary), intermediates, and experts. Tours range from half-day local tours to 1-week adventures paddling the islands of the Dalmatian coast. Suggested itineraries include a wine & cheese sunset paddle, a trip to the Lokrum Island nature reserve, and a visit to the cliffs and caves of Kolocep Island. For, those without their sea legs, biking tours of the stunning Konavle region are also offered. All tours are unique and customized and include local knowledge about history, culture, & folklore.

More information is available on their website, Adriatic Kayak Tours.

 

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Much Ado About Nishta

In Dubrovnik's Old Town, there is much ado about Nishta ("Nothing" in Croatian language) and in this case it is well deserved. A gem among the sea of tourist-trap restaurants that line Prijeko, this is Dubrovnik's only vegetarian restaurant. Its uniqueness is evident in the brightly-colored, playful theme which is centered around the animals you will not be eating. Your hosts Gil & Ruza have traveled the world to learn international cooking techniques and to assemble the small menu, which includes dishes ranging from Red Thai Curry to Tempeh Burritos. The spring rolls starter is especially good and everything goes great with a local Dalmatian white wine. Note to meat-eaters: do not be deterred by the 'vegetarian' label as this restaurant receives rave reviews from everyone!

Nishta is located at Prijeko 30 in Old Town, Dubrovnik.

 

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Off the Beaten Track in Dubrovnik

Most first-time visitors to Dubrovnik stay in or close to the Old Town. This is the historical center of the city and has the highest concentration of sites, restaurants, cafes, bars, & shops. However, it also has the highest concentration of tourist, s and cruise ship passengers just passing through. Those that are looking for a more tranquil, peaceful holiday m, ay want to consider one of the few small villages surrounding Dubrovnik. The following is a brief description of these villages and some of the pros and cons of staying there:

Lozica/Mokosica/Zaton

These small towns are located on the other side of the bridge to the North-East of Dubrovnik. Zaton is a small fishing village that almost completely closes down during the winter months, except for its small population of year-round residents. During the summer, however, it provides guests with a true taste of the Mediterranean with lots of small coves for swimming and 2 of Dubrovnik's best local seafood restaurants (Gverovic A/K/A "Orsan" & Ankora). Lozica has only 1 restaurant and no shops, but it does offer spectacular sea views and a great location just 10-minutes' driving distance from Dubrovnik. Likewise, nearby Mokosica is located in Rijeka Dubrovacka, a small inlet 7 km from Dubrovnik known for its marina and vast hillside scenery.

Positives: tranquility, seclusion, views, and a true taste of Mediterranean life.

Drawbacks: a car is highly recommended (though not required in Zaton); may be too far from Dubrovnik for some; businesses close down from October to May each year.

Zupa Dubrovacka (Kupari, Mlini, Plat, Soline, Srebreno, among others)

This region, located midway between Dubrovnik and Cavtat, is a still-relatively-undiscovered gem, which is often overlooked by first-time visitors to Dubrovnik. It is perfect for guests who seek a peaceful vacation and who have an appreciation for unspoiled beauty. Beaches in this area are among the cleanest and most spectacular on the Dubrovnik Riviera. Mlini offers a charmin, g waterfront promenade lined with café bars and a lovely shaded park, while Plat boasts one of the most picturesque pebble beaches in the area. The tiny village of Soline offers a true taste of Croatian life and is home to one of the best traditional restaurants in the area (Bistro Zupcica). All of Zupa Dubrovacka (Zupa, for short) is within easy reach of Old Town Dubrovnik by loca, l bus or ferry (from May to September), which makes stops in Plat and Mlini on its way from Cavtat to Dubrovnik.

Positives: more privacy & fewer crowds than Dubrovnik; lots of natural beauty & sea views; close proximity to several small swimming beaches; most accommodations have parking spaces; easy & frequent bus or ferry service to Old Town & Cavtat.

Drawbacks: though there are several local restaurants & cafes, they may not be enough to keep visitors entertained for an extended stay without trips to the Old Town or Cavtat; beaches are very popular with locals , on weekends in the summer.

 

Saturday, February 7, 200, 9,

In Vino Veritas

A recent addition to the Dubrovnik bar scene is D'Vino,, a cozy, atmospheric wine bar located on a small side street in the Old Town. It's owner, Canadian-born Cam Wilson, created the bar to offer Dubrovnik residents and visitors an alternative to the many café bars and Irish pubs in town. The unique space has been well designed and achieves a perfect balance between rustic and chic. The wine list represents many different regions of Croatia as well as Italy, France, Spain, Australia, and South America. A visit to D'Vino is a great opportunity to sample various Croatian vintages by the glass and to learn what each region has to offer.

D'Vino Wine bar is located at Palmoticeva 4a; further information may be obtained on their website.

 

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Croatian Cuisine

The diverse flavors of Croatian cuisine reflect the varied history of the country itself. National dishes and cooking techniques encompass traditions from Italy, Bos, nia, Austria, Hungary, and Turkey. Zagreb and the northwest offer hearty meat dishes that you might find in Vienna. As you travel from Zagreb to the coast you can see the food become lighter as Mediterranean influences take hold. The cuisine of the northern coastal area of Istria is borrowed from neighboring Italy with lots of pasta dishes and the famous wild white and black truffle. The cuisine of the Dalmatian coast in the south is also influenced by Italian cooking, but is mostly concerned with fresh fish, seafood, and fabulous olive oil. The following is a list of dishes that you might find on menus in Croatia:

Gulas - A Hungarian influenced stew with meat and vegetables, mostly found in Zagreb and northwest parts of the country.

Kulen - A paprika flavored sausage served cold from the Eastern Slavonia , region of Croatia.

Fresh fish - A staple on menus from Split to Dubrovnik usually prepared simply: grilled whole with olive oil, garlic, and fresh herbs. It can be quite expensive and is usually priced by the kg.

Dalmatian ham - Smoked ham similar to an Italian Prosciutto or an Iberian jamon, usually served sliced very thin and sometimes with melon. This is popular in Istria and in Dalmatia.

Octopus salad - Another dish that you will find on almost every menu in Dalmatia; it is generally good and sometimes great depending on the freshness of the octopus and how it is prepared. Usual ingredients include red onion, capers, olive oil, & vinegar.

Pasticada - A Dalmatian beef dish which is stuffed with lard and roasted in wine and spices; it is generally served with gnocchi...not for those watching their calorie intake.

Meat “under the iron bell” – Pork, veal, or lamb slow roasted with potatoes under an iron “bell” covered in embers for 3 or 4 hours. This is a very traditional method of cooking and is one of Croatia’s most-prized culinary traditions.

Cevapcici - A Bosnian dish of meat sausages (with no casing) or meatballs, usually served in a pita with raw onion and red pepper sauce. The spices give this a unique flavor and it is a must try for meat-eaters.

Raznjici - Shish kebab of pork, beef, lamb, or fish. This dish can be found at many restaurants, but is best at Bosnian restaurants.

Burek - A heavy pastry stuffed with meat or cheese and often eaten on-the-go from a bakery.

Seafood Bouzara - Shellfish cooked in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, herbs, white wine, and breadcrumbs.

Blitva - A side dish served with most fish and seafood dishes in Dalmatia; it is basically swiss chard served boiled with potatoes, olive oil, and garlic.

Black Risotto - A tradition, al Italian style rice dish made with squid and cuttlefish; it's black color comes from the addition of squid ink.

Palacinka - Thin dessert pancakes (like crepes) filled with jam or chocolate and sometimes topped with ice cream. These are of Hungarian origin but are found throughout Croatia today.

Krempita - A cake or pie filled with custard and topped with cream; it is sweet and caloric but for those with a sweet tooth, it should not be missed.

 

Monday, February 2, 2009

Useful Numbers in Dubrovnik

Below is a list of some phone numbers that you may find useful while in Dubrovnik. It's important to at least know the emergency numbers in case of an accident.

Police: 92

Fire Dapartment: 93

Ambulance: 94

Hospital: +385 20 431 777

Roadside Assistance: 987

Public Emergency Center: 985

Operator: 988

International Operator: 901

International Directory Inquiries: 902

Dubrovnik Airport: +385 20 773 377

Taxi Service: +385 20 970

Central Bus Station: +385 20 357 088

Local City Bus Station: +385 423 724

Jadrolinija Ferries: +385 20 418 000

Coast Guard: +385 20 443 555

Harbor Master: +385 20 418 988

ACI Marina: +385 20 455 020

 

Saturday, January 31, , 2009

Real Estate Prices in Dubrovnik

Real Estate prices in Dubrovnik have grown substantially over the last several years fueled by foreign investors and tourists buying vacation and retirement homes. Prices are generally thought to have peaked in 2007 - 2008. At this peak, properties inside the Old Town sold for as much as 7.000 EUR per square meter whereas properties in outer-lying areas such as Cavtat went for 2.500 - 3.500 EUR per square meter. Since the start of the global , economic crisis property sales have cooled off considerably and it is expected that prices will retreat; how much is unknown. A recent article in the Croatia Times claims that price cuts will not be dramatic (Experts announce real-estates price correction but not price cutting in 2009), but then again the Croatian government also does not think the tourism industry will be substantially affected by the global recession (Tourism boss sees no slump for '09). A more realistic scenario would see at least a 20 - 30% price drop during the next couple of years followed by another period of growth once the economy recovers. Should Croatia succeed in its candidacy for E.U. membership we should see another considerable increase in values. However the real estate market plays out in the near-term, Dubrovnik will continue to be a major tourist destination in the future and foreigners will no doubt continue to snatch up seaside property at relatively discounted prices.

 

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Accommodation in Dubrovnik

Visitors to Dubrovnik have many options when choosing their accommodation. There are a few beautiful 4 & 5-star hotels in town and several average 3-star hotels. In addition, there is a large selection of private accommodations, which vary greatly in quality and price. The selection of hotels in Dubrovnik is somewhat limited but is improving every year. For those with a large budget, I recommend any of the following:

- The Pucic Palace - This 5-star boutique hotel is centrally located on Gunduliceva Square in the center of Old Town. It is housed in an old stone building and offers a selection of upscale restaurants and bars.

- Hilton Imperial - Situated in a beautiful historic building, this 5-star hotel sits on a hill just outside of the Old Town. The sea-facing rooms offer great views and the hotel provides guests with many amenities including an excellent restaurant and bar.

- Hotel Excelsior - This popular fixture in Dubrovnik history has been recently updated and still offers the best views of the Old Town from its newly renovated bar. One of this 5-star hotel's best features is its concrete "beach" which allows guests to swim in the Adriatic directly from hotel property.

- Dubrovnik Palace - Lapad's finest 5-star hotel and the most-beautifully positioned hotel in Dubrovnik. The views from the restaurant, pool area, and lobby bar are spectacular as is the direct access to the Adriatic sea for swimming.

- Hotel Bellevue - This sleek, stylish 4-star hotel is perfectly located on a beautiful beach just 800 meters from the Old Town. The hotel's restaurant (Vapor) is one of Dubrovnik's most creative and offers stunning views of the sea.

For those with a more limited budget, I recommend private accommodation over a 3-star hotel. Private apartments and villas are often more comfortable and better appointed than a 3-star hotel and are generally priced lower. They also offer a unique "local" experience and extras such as a kitchen or private terrace. Our website, www.DubrovnikApartmentSource.com offers a wide range of high-quality, upscale apartments and villas in many locations including Old Town, walking distance to Old Town, Lapad, Cavtat, and other areas on the Dubrovnik Riveria.

 
 
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
 
How long should I stay in Dubrovnik?
 
One of the most common questions we hear from travelers to Dubrovnik is "how long should I stay?" The answer to this question depends on how much you want to see. All of the major historical sites of Dubrovnik can be seen in one or two days if you like to keep busy and do not want to visit any of the local area beaches or take day-trips. However, if you use Dubrovnik as a base to explore Southern Dalmatia and the surrounding areas then you could easily keep busy for a week or more.
 
If you only have a day or two in Dubrovnik we recommend staying in or close to the Old Town so as to minimize travel time and maximize your exposure to the historic, aspects of the city. You will likely have to stay in a hotel as most private apartment and villa owners require a 3-night minimum stay, especially during the busy summer season. If your schedule allows a longer stay in Dubrovnik you will have more options. In this case, we recommend staying within walking distance of the Old Town in the neighborhoods of Ploce or Pile. Since you will have no problem meeting the 3-night minimum requirement, we recommend private apartments or villas as they offer a unique, "local" experience and much better rates than comparable hotels. Apartments in the Ploce and Pile neighborhoods often offer more space than those in the Old Town and generally have a balcony or terrace with views of the beautiful Adriatic Sea.
 
If you have decided to make Dubrovnik your base for exploring Southern Dalmatia you will need to stay for a minimum of 4 – 7 days. Popular full-day trips from Dubrovnik include Montenegro, Mostar (Bosnia), the Island of Korcula, the wine region of the Peljesac Peninsula, and a boat trip to the 3 Elaphite Islands. Of course, you will want to leave a couple of days to explore Dubrovnik's Old Town, local beaches, the village of Cavtat, the Konavle region, and perhaps some of the other surrounding villages such as Zaton & Mlini.
Dubrovnik is a small city and can physically be covered in a short time if necessary. However, travelers who choose to spend a bit more time and look beneath the surface will be richly rewarded with cultural experiences and unique, natural beauty.  
 
 
Friday, January 23, 2009
 
Hello from Sunny Dubrovnik!
 
I decided to create this blog as a resource for travelers to Dubrovnik and other areas of Croatia. Though Croatia is becoming a popular destination for travelers there are not many good, comprehensive web sources of accurate travel information. I plan to regularly post useful travel details such as bus and ferry routes/schedules, recommendations of restaurants and local area businesses, and local cultural events and happenings.
 
My wife and I are Americans who have been living in Dubrovnik for 2 years. We own and operate a business named Dubrovnik Apartment Source. Our website is an easy-to-use source for booking high-quality private apartments and villas in and around Dubrovnik. We visit each property personally before listing them on our website and we offer honest, personalized reviews.
 
Please enjoy my postings and feel free to ask any questions about traveling or living in Dubrovnik! I will do my best to answer them quickly.